A few weeks ago visiting The Tzaven, agrimercato of the Campagna Amica Aosta tended to favor the short chain to the consumer closer to the producer direct, Yves incontrato ho Perraillon, craftsman Fontina. A chat and ... in less than no time I was in a Pasture 2200 meters! You will say: "Ma che far?"A Mangia Pane, burro e… Fontina!

And now I ask you: "Hands up who knows what is" behind "a form of Fontina?”  Okay I see that there, but ... do not you mess with us! Therefore, I am saying that giving birth before my guided tour I had not given due consideration to this typical Valle d'Aosta. Do you think it will take much 100 liters of milk to make a form of fontina!

(PDO: Protected Designation of Origin, which is attributed to foods whose characteristics depend on the region from which. Is ensured by a disciplinary.)

I recommend everyone to visit, because, as well as to spend a day in contact with nature, you will appreciate the uniqueness of a product obtained with great Italian job, commitment and passion! I could appreciate the work that led by Yves and his wife, I have conducted in phases and in places of work. Guardando Yves in un momento di vita, in the ritual gestures repeated over the years, I asked him admired: “How many times have you done these operations…?“

The visit to the pasture was the most exciting part of my career. Nature, silences, contact with a calf born only a day… Then,  watch the production of butter as his time as a child… I remember that in the country in Treviso watched my grandmother Jija in the fulfillment of the same operation, almost in contemplation, admired by the transformation of that cream into butter and then spread on bread gustavo, exactly as I did in pasture by Yves…

In these valleys at an altitude of 2000 meters animals are fed in pastures rich in a particular vegetation that gives the milk characteristics far more peculiar farming in the valley. Despite this, you can not distinguish between a label and a fontina Alpine valley floor, seen that the marking is the same, and is not allowed by the specification to add anything beyond the specification for the PDO. Only the aromas and flavors tasted allow us to differentiate. It is good? And for mio parere! The work involved in the breeding pasture is awarded to a product with specific characteristics, and why the consumer should not have the possibility of being able to read the label! Mah!

But who can tell you better than Yves ...

• Yves Perrailon, producer of Fontina Alpine. How did your passion?

Born from a passion passed down from generation to generation family. I have always been passionate about everything that is related to agriculture from the animals ..., from haymaking, cheese from milk…

• What is your typical day?

Well depends on the season ... In the winter you go to the bottom of the valley:

– Wake up at 5, milking, animal feeding, contribution of milk and dairy 16 second milking.

In period estivo you go to pasture:

– Wake up at 3 morning, milking, processing of milk for the production of Fontina. Following cleaning of the stable,  salting and turning the fontina cheeses produced in the days before. Then you go to the pasture to the 12 with the return of the animals. We have lunch at 15, and after the second milking proceed with the processing of the fontina and the pasture until at 22.

• The DOP is certified as a guarantee of the product according to a product specification for the PDO "FONTINA". What are the requirements for certification? 

There are many to the area of ​​production, seasoning,  portioning of melted cheese, feed the cows consists of grass and hay produced exclusively in Aosta Valley and more… The specification is available on the website of the Ministry of Agricultural Food and Forestry Policies. It is recognized by the "Consorzio Tutela Fontina" (CTF).

• In my visit to your company, I noticed that your employees are mostly foreigners. How is the working approach of the Italian dairy sector?

No staff is Italian, alas. Assume that we train foreign personnel on the job, I have to say with great results.

The cheese… the stroke of the milk to immortality.

Clifton Fadiman

This Earth needs our love and protection. As the saying Carlo Sgorlon, the earth is mother, the earth is the beginning and the end, e tutto il resto non è che una favola. Tornare a vivere in armonia con la natura, following its rhythms, in an environmentally, si può ancora. Si deve, because we are part of, betray her because it's like betraying ourselves.

L 'Tree of ice cream it is a concrete example. A company founded seven years ago committed to the sustainable development of culture, who made his distinctive promotion of small producers Brianza, without neglecting the excellence of our territory. The search for raw materials, appreciation of the concept of seasonality, il km 0, direct knowledge of the producers with a short chain, the rediscovery of lost flavors, the use of renewable sources for the energy needed in ice cream... Are the reasons that led me to their knowledge.

I got to meet them the first time at a rally in Milan in which they are presented with their “cart to solar panels”.  Ideato con la collaborazione di giovani ingegneri, cools their ice cream with sun rays. Monia and Alexander have developed their passion and creativity, giving continuity to the family tradition. First with the head office in Barlow, then in Seregno and finally in Cogliate. Monia told me about a dream that they will be realized in the short… the opening of a new office in New York.

It was time to go to find them. And then as I say,  pronti… via!

I went to them a warm afternoon on a Sunday a few weeks ago. La prima impressione al mio ingresso fu il ricordo di una bottega di campagna dall’atmosfera dei bei tempi. Here and pots of seedlings, books scattered, a corner dedicated to children to teach them the difference between an organic fruit and fruit treated. To bring them closer to nature with simple gestures, come quello di regalare in primavera delle bustine contenenti semi da piantare nelle vaschette biodegradabili del gelato.

Monia e Alessandro mi guidarono nella visita raccontandomi la loro storia e soprattutto la loro filosofia. Quando poi arrivammo a parlare degli ingredienti dei loro gelati,  si alzò letteralmente la mia famosa “antenna”.   One, perché andammo a toccare un argomento a me molto caro, le erbe benefiche e i frutti dimenticati.

Non mi credete? Read a little’ qui…

• Gelato alle andrbe aromatiche di Montevecchia.
• Gelato alla Salvia Ananas, una specie di Salvia dal profumo di ananas.
• Gelato all’Azzeruolo, un frutto dimenticato.
• Gelato al Frassino da manna, antica coltivazione dalle proprietà decongestionanti del fegato e dall’azione sedativa della tosse.
• Gelato alla Viola del pensiero, dalle proprietà benefiche per l’apparato renale.
• Gelato al Garofano cinese, utile per prevenire le vertigini, il nervosismo e le palpitazioni.
• Gelato alla Bocca di leone, utilizzata per fare i gargarismi nelle ulcerazioni della bocca.
• Gelato alla Spirulina, un’alga coltivata da un unico produttore in toscana, e che in Africa è chiamata l 'Alga della vita per le sue proprietà.

I gusti dei loro gelati rispecchiano la loro creatività. Una continua evoluzione dal dolce al salato, dai più classici ai più sorprendenti… Come per il gusto ai formaggi locali della tradizione di piccoli produttori, o a quello agli ortaggi di stagione, o alla panna acida e salmone inacidito con verdello di Siracusa (varietà di limoni).

Un gusto molto particolare è quello della “Spiga e Madia”. Questo gelato ha trovato ispirazione dal progetto sviluppato in Brianza di coltivare mais per ricavare farina integrale. Un gelato con un latte che deriva da un cereale antico ricco di folati, sostanze che prevengono il rischio d’infarto.

Non hanno dimenticato neanche chi, for intolleranze al lattosio, poteva gustarsi solo i gelati alla frutta. I gusti alle creme preparati con latte vegetale sono dedicati a loro. Per ora sono dolcificati con il fruttosio, ma tra poco lo saranno con la stevia.  Sapete che pianta è la Stevia?  Con l’amico Giustino Catalano recentemente ho pubblicato un pezzo che ne racconta delle belle!  Ne consiglio vivamente la lettura!

Ma ora voglio farvi conoscere meglio Monia e Alessandro. A loro la parola…

• Le nostre origini, tutto parte da li… Cosa vi ha spinto ad intraprendere l’attività di artigiani del gelato?

Siamo una seconda generazione di gelatieri, anche se abbiamo capito che era il lavoro che volevano veramente fare, dopo che ognuno di noi figli ha seguito percorsi universitari diversi. A un certo punto la passione ha chiamato, e abbiamo seguito il cuore che ci diceva di “fare gelati” secondo una filosofia molto precisa: materie prime biologiche di piccoli produttori che conosciamo e abbiamo visitato personalmente, frutta maturata sulla pianta dal sole e colta solo nel suo momento migliore, filiera corta, km0, prodotti equosolidali, tutto nel pieno rispetto della natura compresi i packaging che utilizziamo, rigorosamente biodegradabili. It’ nato così l’Tree of ice cream.

• Tradizione ed innovazione… Utilizzate ancora pratiche tramandate dall’esperienza familiare?

Sì moltissimo, è ancora molto attuale come le infusioni per alcuni gusti e la lavorazione delle uova. Poi fortunatamente la tecnologia “del freddo” ha fatto passi da gigante e ora ci aiuta molto di più rispetto a 30 years ago.

• A “bugiardino” goloso: posologia e modalità d’uso del… gelato?

Assumere in grande quantità tranquillamente ogni giorno! Se un gelato è fatto bene ha pochissimi grassi e “buoni”; i gusti alle creme hanno solo il 5-8% fat (panna e latte, niente grassi vegetali o peggio ancora grassi vegetali idrogenati che non vengono smaltiti dal nostro fisico come i grassi “buoni”, ma occludono le nostre arterie), mentre la frutta nulla. Gli zuccheri sono circa al 28%, veramente poco se pensiamo che una merendina industriale ha il 18% di grassi e il 49% di zuccheri.

• Da appassionata di vino se vi chiedo un gelato al… wine, che ne dite?

Diciamo che è buonissimo, ed è una bella esperienza che spesso proponiamo in gelateria. Uno dei nostri preferiti è la Ciliegia con il Moscato di Scanzo.

• La creatività non ha limite. Sogni e progetti nel cassetto?

Il nostro sogno è sempre quello di continuare a fare gelato con la contaminazione esistente tra noi che “trasformiamo” un ingrediente e chi questo ingrediente lo coltiva in modo responsabile, tra noi quindi e il mondo contadino/agricolo, perché siamo anelli della stessa catena. Ci piace vedere maturare la “nostra” frutta, condividere i problemi quotidiani di un raccolto che può andare bene o male a seconda della condizioni climatiche.  Lavoriamo così in Brianza e dal prossimo anno la nostra avventura continuerà anche a New York, una bella sfida.

• Gelati abbinati ai piatti. Me ne raccontate qualcuno?

Ce ne sono tantissimi… Gelato di Fatulì della Val Saviore con miele di melata e sorbetto ai fichi fioroni su crostone di pane di lievito madre. Gelato di fagiolini menta selvatica e aceto di mele, con tagliata di roast-beef al sale di Cervia. Gelato al peperone di Carmagnola con Robiola di Roccaverano. Gelato ai funghi porcini con riso mantecato…

• Vi rifornite da piccoli produttori. Qual è la vostra esperienza nella scelta e nell’approvvigionamento?

Innanzitutto la qualità non è paragonabile a quella di nessuna “grande distribuzione”.  E’ solo un po’ complicato in termini logistici.

• Organizzate Laboratori di gelato per i bambini. Quali argomenti trattate?

I Laboratori di gelato sono sempre una grande soddisfazione.  Attraverso i cinque sensi annusiamo le fragole (generalmente facciamo questo gusto), cercando di spiegare la differenza tra un aroma “finto” e uno “vero”. Parliamo di stagionalità (le fragola a dicembre è meglio lasciarle al supermercato!), parliamo di frutta non necessariamente perfetta, perchè a noi interessa che sia buona, rossa e matura…

• Gelato d’estate o… gelato tutto l’anno ?

Assolutamente tutto l’anno! I “veri” amanti del gelato lo gustano maggiormente d’inverno che d’estate!

Oh amabile sorbetto, nettare prezioso e delicato,
benedetto colui che t’ha inventato…
Due cose in questo mondo meritano il primo onore
il sorbetto gelato e il caldo amore…

Carlo Goldoni (Amore in caricatura 1761)

Well say ... 'I'm around Cinzia is just gone! But no ... and I tell you now I tell you!

You must know that bees exchange information with each other through dances with which food sources are indicated, the direction and quality of the nectar. For example, dance with the sisters of the abdomen lead to distances of more than 100 meters, while with the circular dance they signal supplies in the immediate vicinity. The discovery of the language of bees was made in 1973 gave premio Nobel Karl Von Frish zoologo austriaco.

And so now we dance… in the direction of Padova beekeeping Giarin!

Always love this product, and when my friend Gianpaolo told me that his uncles produced it, I have not missed the opportunity for a visit incognito… is why I revealed only at the end as I was arrived at their. I like to let me know who I am, in the end, there is much more satisfaction!

The dear and kind Maffeo owner of the company welcomed me. He told me of his adventure to discover the honey and not only… Because his passion for this art was born in 1980 when Anna then his girlfriend gave him a beehive. Slowly his dedication to beekeeping increased, intensifying the activity until it became the main interest of the family.

We know all the beneficial properties of honey derived from the nectar of flowers, I want to remember but only for a moment his compositions nutritional. Well for 100 g. honey we have an energy value of 314 kcal, proteins 0.6 %, carbohydrates 78 %, especially from fat 0%… then under to eat, then that is so good!

Prowling in their emporium, Curious curious I found a liqueur made with a long process of maceration of wildflower honey, alcohol, spices and lemon peel. This dew of theirs from the Euganean hills is called "Honeymoon". An elixir already known in ancient Greece in 1500 a.C., considered a sacred drink gift of the Gods produced by bees that transformed the sun into honey by uniting the lifeblood of the earth ...water.

With Maffeo chatted for a long time… He told me about the didactic meetings organized with the students to share passions and knowledge acquired over the years. Its a nice idea was to adopt a hive painted by the children themselves, to give them a sense of belonging that entice them to follow the continuity of their visits, the stages of the production of this natural product.

Walking in the surrounding garden I noticed beautiful stone sculptures that I soon discovered his creations. Proud made me do a real art trail… yes, because in the house where they resided there were so many!

I never knew my grandfather Emilio, but he gave me were great things…

Friulian man of passion, great entrepreneurial spirit rooted in the traditions, but with an eye toward innovation. A disease carried him off early. I have left him in addition to the estimated earned with tales of his adventures, my middle name, Emilia. He was born in Cormons in the province of Gorizia.  When recently I was presented the opportunity for a short break them I said to myself: "But what better opportunity for a return to basics…"I think it is good to everyone occasionally pausing to think, to reflect. You may be citizens of the world, but I am convinced that its ties with the country of origin is indissoluble.  Anyone who thinks he can do without is a dreamer.

The torniamo of CormonsPensai tra ... me and me, "Far 400 km, and I like to travel ... "And, in fact, men who do not say I had arrived at their destination. Upon my arrival I was welcomed by the pleasant surroundings of the hills of Collio ingentilendo the landscape gave an air of romance to the whole context of the past.  I walked to the place where I was staying, "La Subida",  and I was not at all rejected.

The place was surrounded by a lush green, between plants of rosemary and lavender bouquets tied artfully arranged and everywhere. I began my usual exploration, pausing my gaze to a large enclosure in which a group of trotting horses.  I love these animals from the look noble and proud, and I wanted to give them a bit 'of my time. Lost in my thoughts I called myself to my duties as host, and returned to the base.

I immediately had the pleasure of meeting the hosts, Trace, looking man frank and firm and sweet wife Loredana. But they were less children. In particular, Tanja reminded me of a damsel in Provence, With wide-eyed and soft clothes, always smiling and willing to talk. Then I met Michael, great collaborator whose warmth and kindness distinguished him from the start. And as usually happens, chatter and laughter in a serious conversation and the other did not fail. But suddenly it was mentioned a vinegar ... and my curiosity is sparked.

Acetaia say, "Oh God has also given vinegar",  Well it is a very interesting and not respected. And I, in spite of my Roman friends that challenge me, I love to put drops on oysters. Seeing is believing! Do you think that Italy is the first producer in the world with vinegar, and this suggests it should be further enhanced. Raise awareness of the many uses and destinations can be attributed to him would give due credit.

Did you know that you great sprayed on vegetable soups, the omelettes, the fat fish, about strawberries ... but not only, just a little 'dilution is an excellent remedy to gargle for sore throat. And not only, think a cube soaked in vinegar chewed slowly stops the hiccups and reduces seasickness. Efficace per calmare una scottatura superficiale o per neutralizzare una puntura d’insetto… e molto di più. (Fonti di joske Sirk).

But back to my visit ... I had the pleasure of having as a guide Josko Sirk, oste come lui loved definirsi,  nonché l’artefice di questo sogno e progetto in continua evoluzione. We began our walk through my usual stream of questions ... as if to find some kind of hidden secret of life. I wonder if my curiosity will be satisfied ever. We walked to a trail that would lead us to our protagonist, the Acetaia. In during our walk, Josko behind my insistence, told me about his family arrived from Slovenia in difficult times. After having devoted himself to the cultivation of the earth and then the activity at the inn, the failed father made him responsible choices.

Over the years to come with his wife Loredana, riuscì a concretizzare il sogno della sua vita: create a heart of green residential oasis of peace and relaxation, "The climb". And knowing there does not seem to ask the meaning of the name ... Well, built upon a sixteenth-century church in the country, Church of Christ of Subida which in turn owes its origin to a miracle which occurred in 1597.

But his life was evolving, and another project was for years more and more emerging: “La Foresta dell'Acetaia"For the noble vinegar production of the best grapes of the Collio, niche product for those who can understand it, unfortunately ill-treated by the lack of information attributed. Completely made of wood, the Vinegar was in perfect harmony with the surrounding environment. The star was white grapes from native grapes, from the adjacent vineyard. In my entry I showed a magical setting for those who love the environment. Stepped barrels and barrels arranged methodically, intended to facilitate the various processing stages. No presence of machines, everything followed a natural cycle. I did try the scent of his creatures, recommending not to swallow. I inebriai in intense and hard head from which I wanted to try the flavor slightly wetting the lips ... I must say pleasantly satisfied.

Josko mi these: "One of my gripe is how to make vinegar once , with the best grapes of the Collio ".   For someone like me who love the tradition to listen to these words was true poetry. With five producers united in friendship and passion he has finally finished off a project to raise awareness of the vinegar with its customs and its history: the Friends acids.

While it is true, with’ it is true, that a large wine is made’ by a large grape, this great grape I make my big vinegar. It takes me a few years, and in this time I have to take care of him and cuddle him like a baby in swaddling clothes.

  Josko Sirk

The Supreme tell, but what we are talking? I spiego… the Supreme was a sinuous and fascinating woman painted on a wall of an ice cream parlor, already ... and that is how my story begins today.

The Supreme

Thrust from the warm days ago, but not only, if in una known ice cream parlor Brianza. I knew already renowned for the quality of its products, but this time I had gone there with a very specific mission. On a mission in ice cream you ask? Sure you, because behind excellence which it is, c’è passione, and look for the souls of my passion is now a need for life! I always say I know, but I like it so much, that become repetitive, My other defect. That said ... ready, via!

I walked into the small room that at first glance reminded me of the classic ice cream parlor country, where he is now a regular customer who enters, and listening to the rhythmic friendly hello, is constant and pleasant. I ordered my cup of ice cream, However, by including the request for a chat with the lady who was serving me, Anna, the holder. He looked at me puzzled there for them, but smiling, and I have to say that I liked it immediately. As soon as the customer let him sat at a table with me. At first I showed, and then I began to ask how he began his adventure.

Anna era nata in provincia di Taranto, in a family that lived in the work of the land, various crops and vineyards. From his mother he had taken the entrepreneurial streak. It was in fact that she took care of the management and sale of products.

When the activity was no longer enough to support the family, had to move to the north. Once grown, plunged into its first project. Young opened a dairy, but in short he had to leave to devote himself once married to the family. A husband and three children occupied most of the day.

Life, however, often puts us to the test, and so it was for her. The sudden death of her husband left her alone for forty-three years with three kids to look after. He had to start over ... As he spoke boldly I looked, and I saw in her the strength, kindness, and the dogged resolution of a determined woman.

After adapted for various uses, now when the kids were grown, the opportunity presented itself to acquire an ice cream parlor. A fifty-one years with the support of his son Luke then twenty, they flung enterprise that would prove to be a success. Together they went to see the local already started. Entering were hit by a charming woman painted on a wall. Era lei, The Supreme, and she came from the name of. It took him no more than a day to decide, even a moment more.

The new adventure began ... Anna told me that the first years were hard, they worked to cover the costs. They were forced to extend the local sacrificing the beautiful painted views of the Supreme. The activity of the ice cream was not enough, and to remedy it was decided to create a wet bar. Meanwhile, Paul, l’altro figlio, was venturing in the activity with interest and curiosity almost maniacal. Paul told me that once he went to Padua in motor to meet a professional ice cream which he had heard. He wanted some advice to get the best combination of ingredients for a perfect fiordilatte.

Both Paul and Luke had sent their studies on very different roads, but then both screened in this dream family, were induced to leave their business to devote himself entirely to ice cream and pastry. Initially they had acquired the technical basis for an approach adopted with the franchise for two years. But the space fantasy that left them, was limited, then left to continue this road of independent specialists. The search continues and combinations of ingredients was their school.

Paul was telling me proud of her specialties. For example, for the ice cream Sicilian Cassata, used a cheese that came directly from Sicily, while for the ice cream used tropical fruits typical imported from Brazil. But their pride was the taste that bore the name of "The Supreme". In practice it was ice cream made with almond paste, plain chocolate, caramelized almonds and chestnut honey, vera pump! Obviously I did not miss me ...

In the afternoon when I entered the room only to arrange a meeting, I ended up spending three pleasant hours laughing and chatting. And of course, eating ice cream to everyone who knows me ... not hardly believe!

But the gem is yet to come ... Paul, become sommelier, had worked to combine his two passions. He enrolled in the 2010 the Italian championship for ice cream. And guess what he proposed ... yes, ice cream Franciacorta. He finished second out of forty participants for Lombardy! Unfortunately, that day it was devoid, but he promised me that he will find me to my next visit ...