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My explorations in GourmArte 2014

It has just successfully completed the third edition of GourmArte, the three-day food and wine event that takes place annually at the Fiera di Bergamo. A format organized by Ente Fiera Promoberg percent dedicated to excellence in Lombardy, created and led by Elio Ghisalberti, journalist and industry expert. As in previous editions, area reserved for productions it was possible to devote tastings and knowledge producers, while in space dedicated to catering, has been able to taste a selection of dishes of famous chefs and restaurateurs Lombard.

A special edition that coincided with the award of Premio Luigi Veronelli ten years after the disappearance of the wine journalist. Only category 'The Earth'. Prize Giorgio Grai, Trentino winemaker from long experience, Nataša Černic, young winemaker of a land as difficult as that of the Karst, and finally Marisa Cuomo, that, with her husband Andrea Ferraioli, stood out for having been able to tear strips of land to be dedicated to the cultivation of the vine in Amalfi Coast. Having said, I will tell you of some production from the many exposed that caught my attention. It happens when, in the stories of the people, emerging environmental awareness, the quality and originality of the productions.

Always a pleasure to meet friends of Cantina di Quistello.  Il loro Lambrusco Grappello Ruberti mi riporta alle mie origini mantovane, and an extensive territory along the banks of the river Secchia ancient traditions wine.

Cantina di Quistello

A delightful surprise meeting with Marco Church, My kind guide to the pleasant taste of wine 'Azienda Agricola San Michele Capriano del Colle, in the province of Brescia. I particularly appreciated the intensity and the body of the '1884 Red Book' : Marzemino 40%, Sangiovese 40%, Merlot 15% and Barbera 5%. A great value for money.

Azienda Agricola San Michele

I know the Blue Buffalo? It 'a cheese' character 'of my favorites, which owes its name to the blue-green mold used to make Gorgonzola. Paolo Leone, my cheese expert, describes it as tasty and persistent. This is one of the Dairy Farm Four Gates Cologno al Serio, in the province of Bergamo.

Dairy Farm Four Gates

Walking through the stands I could not avoid to stop in front of the Bonucci Truffles Romano di Lombardia (BG). Irresistible perfume. I met so Gloria Bonucci, third generation of truffle, that with the help of his dog continues the family tradition. Tells his passion on his blog Passion Undergrowth. To follow! 😉

Gloria Bonucci

Gloria Bonucci

Host region of this edition of GourmArte Sardinia. The witness'Azienda Agricola Fratelli Pinna Ittiri, in the province of Sassari. A reality of family 170 hectares for the cultivation of olive trees of centenarians 'Bosana', a cultivar diffused in the north of the island. An extra virgin olive oil that I enjoyed for intense aromas and flavors. The oil in the mouth ...

Azienda Agricola Fratelli Pinna

Inevitable a greeting to friends of 'Azienda Agricola Salera. This time I found very interesting their puffed rice with saffron and spinach prepared by chef Antonio Cuomo. A good alternative to be proposed for aperitifs.

Azienda Agricola Salera

Agriculture can help in many ways. The Cafe Milano Treviglio did recovering an ancient cultivation of melons Calvenzano with it and producing a liquor. You drink it in small glasses of chocolate and it matches the Turta de Trei, a cake in the 90s won the competition of the Association of City Shops Treviglio. Two creations of their production.

Cafe Milano

Do you like the Pomegranate? A me si, I put it even in the salad. Do you think that in Milan by a pomegranate tree grew on a terrace, a family starting to produce a liquor to friends, gave birth to a real production. It is called Melogranello®.  Sometimes you have to dare!

Melogranello®

Productions to be told there would be many more. But some want to go to meet you directly in the field, I like it. That said, ora concluderò questo mio racconto mostrandovi qualche piatto che ho avuto il piacere di assaggiare. 🙂




Da Gianni Cogo, Giorgio Grai, a Michele Bean, Franco Dalla Rosa. No meeting is by chance ...

A single common denominator, a bunch of grapes made up of many small spheres. The circle is closed, per lo meno questo cerchio. In Giapponese la parola cerchio è tradotta in ‘enso’, and means lighting, force, universe. It 's the time when the mind is giving free rein to creativity.

Once Upon a time, in a past time, I lived my life with the handbrake on. Revolved around itself, not take me anywhere. I did not live, or better, I survived. Autoconvincevo accept a life that I have the good fortune to live, it was a challenge to myself. But now I wonder – but why should we do it?! –

Life is real only if it is lived. The moment you understand, pian piano lasci andare il freno a mano, and everything changes… Change to the point that you can no longer live the life of the first. That's the only problem. And then run, you know, seek, but finally alive. And so it happens that as you continue to live what you have not lived, and to know what you have not known, meet people who advise you, and when you feel the need to talk.

"No meeting is a chance ... I am beginning to think and believe strongly that it is so, and this thought makes life more fun and meaningful. If you look back to your past life, you can see that every person you met, every single person, has contributed in its own way to let you be who you are today. Kay Pollak”

Ricordo ancora quando incontrai Giorgio Grai su consiglio del viticoltore Gianni Cogo. Quando mi chiese il motivo della mia visita, gli risposi che non lo sapevo, or better, ero li per capirlo. Thanks to him, despite the positions taken by some’ harsh, I came across a wine-del Collio Friulano, Michele Bean. Incuriosita da alcune sue affermazioni legate a Grai, gli chiesi di incontrarci.

Michele è un giovane enotecnico della terra del Collio. Harsh but true, passionate and true belief for the land, think like me, that il vino sia fatto da persone. Uno di quegli uomini che i più definiscono ruvidi, con cui io amo confrontarmi. Ci siamo trovati in una piazza di Treviso.

Michele Bean ha iniziato la sua attività nei Colli Orientali del Friuli, seguendo ogni fase della viticoltura, as it should be for those who really want to understand, imparare e migliorare. After working in the USA, in 2003 he returned to Italy. Now he is a consultant to companies in Sicily, in Toscana e in Friuli. But not only, since it is experimenting with new realities and new varieties in Serbia.

I like to have something to do with inspiring people, who do not necessarily want to live on the tracks. The wine gives you a chance to become a better person, do you know if you capture the essence. It is not the product itself ... is something that goes far beyond. It’ the flicker that you see in your eyes when you taste the good things to others. And 'the broken voice of a manufacturer "true",  quando ti parla della sua esperienza di vita e del suo percorso. They are proactive, fair, elastic springs but for nothing, Visionary, but continues to grow ... Michele Bean "

Mi consigliò di conoscere un uomo in cui riponeva profonda stima e rispetto, Franco Dalla Rosa.  Mi these: He formed me. A good part of my knowledge base is his. "  Ho seguito il consiglio.

Franco Dalla Rosa, uno di quegli uomini che quando ti stringono la mano lo fanno sul serio. Un uomo semplice dal volto buono e dalla lunga esperienza. In una vecchia Osteria di Treviso mi ha raccontato brevemente il suo percorso di vita. Nato ad Asolo da una famiglia contadina. Suo padre, I described it with great words of admiration, è colui che gli ha trasmesso quell’amore per la terra che lo ha portato verso il settore dell’enologia. After studying in Conegliano has undertaken its way into the world of wine, working first in the Cantina sociale di Asolo, then continue in the Company Cà Ronesca Dolegna del Collio. Here he met a young enthusiast who began to take its first steps in viticulture, Michele Bean.

In the afternoon we spent together was discussed traditions, of wine culture, and abused and improper terms such as "bubbles" and "prosecchino" that, without diminishing the wine culture, favoriscono le produzioni industriali legate alla quantità e non alla qualità.

Franco is back to perform his work as a winemaker in Asolo, because the roots have called, because this man is an integral part of this land. It has a project: retrieve a red grape nearly extinct in which he believes. But that's another story ...




Giorgio Grai, and “the sense of duty "

“Stiamo vivendo in un’epoca in cui tutti hanno diritti, ma nessuno parla di doveri. Giorgio Grai”

I met Giorgio Grai following the advice of John Cogo, the engineer who brianzolo “arma le terre” Bonassola and about which I wrote recently. I had arranged a tour of wines, but most of all tenants between the Veneto and Friuli. In particular, I felt compelled to keep his promise to his friend Michelangelo Cutting time back in the lead in the first visit to Oslavia Josko Gravner.

After sending an e-mail to arrange a meeting, answering the phone one morning I heard a voice say: “Buongiorno Cinzia, Giorgio Grai have. "I was the base of friends in the center of Treviso. Game early Michelangelo reached at Concordia Saggitaria; a hug and off for the first leg of our tour, Butterwick direction of Friuli.

I was not informed about the history of George. As usual, I prefer to know the people directly, to do with an idea is not tainted by what they read or hear; sometimes I realize that is a bit 'risky, but I like it, because the one that I live in this way is much more exciting.

Michelangelo was a witness to what I write; only after, on the way back, revealed to me that he feared a little bit of listening to our conversation to the crease who initially took. Giorgio Grai not understanding exactly what I tried with my questions suddenly asked me decided: “I would like to understand how I can be helpful for you?"I could not answer him that I did not know. I was there because I was advised to know. I told him simply that I would have understood only through his knowledge.

A man is not easy… but they are not either. There was a time when, having regard to its concerns, I could not help but ask: “Courage, Tell what you think!"His response was: “Lady, if there is a person who says what he thinks I am!"In this statement I found myself. During my life I have paid many times for my choices, order not to be compromised.

My path is now a, although I have not yet entirely clear destination. Maybe that's why I do drive; I just know that every person I meet I try to learn a lesson which I love to write in a simple way, che custodisco, and I agree.

Giorgio Grai was born in Bolzano to Trieste father and mother Rovereto. The son of a family of hoteliers grew up in a time when, quote his own words "the right to be able to study it meant to have the right to be promoted”. After his agricultural studies and specialization in viticulture and enology, the experiences abroad have brought to 'use of touch, of taste and smell. The passion for engines that well understand and agree that, led him then to be for ten years a rally driver.

I will not dwell too much on the story of his life in many well-known from the information on the web; I preferred "living man" while, wine tasting in the light of the sun, I reflected on his words: “The recovery of a sense of duty than that of the right”. On my return to the house of things about him I've read and I've heard many… I only know for sure, I will remember to have known him in one morning in March while he savored her pie poppy, typical of South Tyrol, and then, we walked together in the cellar of the farm behavior with Marina Danieli.

And now I ask you: “Have you ever had to taste wine goblets resting on the hood of a Subaro under the hot sun of a morning in March ?” I did, but most of all I have lived. In that atmosphere I enjoyed listening to the life of George tell his wine and then hearing him say: “Godo di questo momento.

I reproduce below a passage of “The Winegrowers historical” Luigi Veronelli and Nichi Stefi, Giorgio Grai gave me the day of our meeting.

"Giorgio Grai appears with the detached air of one who does not want to belong to anyone and is willing to pay for his freedom with the isolation. He has a ready wit, often caustic, always fun; but beneath the laughter reads his desire for precision. His adventure in wine is not only the result of a great and evident pleasure, but the continuous work of which he is aware and which offers you like the most obvious thing in the world ... "

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