A few days ago ended the 4 'edition of Olio Officina Food Festival, the event in Milan Direct dall'oleologo and writer Luigi Uploaded starring oil from olives. A format dedicated to in-depth, debates and tastings, Every year aim to disseminate good food culture to encourage the consumer to an informed choice.

During the day I attended, Many insights on which to compare to the promotion of a major production Italian who lives a difficult season. Here I will focus on some moments that I believe deserve attention and reasoning weighted.

• The management of the oil at the restaurant.

One of the key arguments for a proposal that favors the extra virgin olive oil quality. The role of the restoration in this case is of significant importance.
Educating the customer towards a conscious choice depends greatly on how it is presented a product. This also means training of employees and a comparison with the world of production through meetings and training courses that prepare for this task.

• The blending.

With Marcello Scoccia, vice president ONAOO (National Organization of Olive Oil Tasters) there was talk of blend, that is the art of assembling cultivars for sensory profiles that meet the customer. Even if you do not like it at all,  blending is not intended as a sophistication. This task is in fact acquitted taster experts.

The management of the oil at the restaurant

• Single Dose of extra virgin olive oil at the restaurant.

An interesting idea repeatedly discussed, that farms can take to present itself to consumers through restaurants. A single dose at a nominal price to be known and spread so the productions of extra virgin quality, making it possible for consumers to place orders directly to businesses.

• Cap antirabbocco.

Here you touch a sore spot. There is in fact who it deems just a tease for the consumer, Having regard to the use of lower quality oils that 'sometimes’ are used in the kitchen during the preparation of the dishes. Personally, to prevent a bottle with a label notes is repeatedly filled with oils questionable, I promote undoubtedly the adoption of this cap. On the rest of the professionalism of the restaurateur makes the difference. As pointed out by a member of the audience present at the debate, Japan, country that I appreciate more and more, much prefer to favor investment in culture industry. Who wants to understand wishes.

• Food and Children.

With Giovanna Ruo Berchera, cooking teacher, there was talk of children who refuse food for reasons not related to taste. Playing with food tying them to the stories, unknowingly creates emotions that are stored in the memories. Involve them in the preparations, in addition to amuse, helps them overcome the mistrust and win. I defy anyone not remember a food memory linked to a childhood memory…

• Eros and food.

The oil feeds eros. This is the theme of the 4′ edition of Olio Officina Food Festival. Even the bread is eros. Simona Lauri, and technical consultant for bakery, with Joseph Capano, chef and consultant kitchen, he told a food that I love very much, crafts and rewarding, that gives me pleasure and wellbeing brought me back to the values ​​of a time. My advice is to carefully choose the bakers who prefer quality flours. In return we will have baked goods that make our days more rich in goodness and health.

 The bread, a warm body that is life and passion. Simona Lauri

Maximum Occhinegro, international marketing expert

The Caves of Silenus, an archaeological site where oil is produced, ancient wine and fruit. Here you will find the garden of 'Columella', the prehistoric hut, but above all the warmth of Magna Grecia (xenia).

Sileno, a mythological being an educator of ancient Greece Dionysus (Bacchus). Depicted as an old drunk riding a donkey, is the protector of the vineyards and wine.

I met him in his cave, or better, in the area around a farm in the province of Taranto Castellaneta where, during archaeological excavations, plants were found in vineyards and pre-Roman depictions of Silenus. Testimonials attesting to the vocation of this land to the production of wine.

Hence the origin of the name of the farm of which he is a member Raffaele Rochira: The Caves of Silenus.

Paolo Wed Barberio. Farm Bell – Raffaele Rochira Az. Agricola The Caves of Silenus

An estate that purchased after passing a difficult time in her life. Despite not being born farmer, its origins have invoked the earth. Determinants studies in Tuscany. The passion for the land and the stubbornness of its people to promote it, he has been in years to come of great teaching.

Although Italy has always been a country suited to the land and agriculture, bureaucratic complications hinder those who want to, with great effort, dedicate to it. A key alas sore, argue that, unfortunately, I feel every time I visit a farm reality.

A screw one hundred years. Monuments of nature.

• Raffaele, let's start from here. How do you live your territory?

It 'difficult to operate in an environment characterized by lack of love and lack of economic opportunities; in particular in the vision, by some citizens, conditioned by representatives of the Institutions, that, for several reasons, do not believe or do not want to believe in the primary sector.

The importance of communicating the territory through the recovery of our historical roots is the true awareness to not lose our identity for a new cultural and economic vision.

The Caves of Silenus – Antique door

• Wine, Oil and ancient fruit. These are your main productions.

Exact. What I try to do is tell with our products, the nature and culture of this great land loved since the dawn of time, da filosofi, Scientists, Emperors and Princes. I tell my Earth, Puglia, la weir (land) Taranto, where the olive trees migrate in a metaphorical sense and not.

A frontier land full of magic, full of mysteries not yet violated. What I try to do is to arouse emotions in those who decide to "live it".

The olive married with stone

• I've talked about your old garden: the garden of Columella.

The idea stems from the fact that, I bought the company I found intact the garden of Columella (Surveyor General and the Roman Empire which granted to veterans of the Roman legions, returning from missions, land). Novanta are (nine thousand square meters) bordered by dry stone walls on the north side are up to four feet to protect from cold north winds vegetable garden and fruit trees.

Given that fortuitously had preserved this ancient structure, why not replace the ancient plants and ancient semi reconstructing in full the garden and made a living example of archeology of the area? So I made.

Capers

• You made me see the reconstruction of prehistoric hut Middle Bronze Age, found south of the company. It 'tied to a project?

One, is a faithful reconstruction, put in place with the help of architects and archaeologists: an experimental archeology project aimed at the promotion of the territory. We have some different, including one for the promotion of construction techniques Biodynamic the realization of which passes through a synergistic action between universities, professionals and other businesses.

House of Straw

• In your estate organizes archaeological activities with children. An initiative that has had a successful, and teaching them to love story. I do parli?

Thanks to the collaboration with the Cultural Association Aulon Res, composed of specialized guides supported by archaeologists and architects, visits are organized with schools, and not only. Both children and adults have the opportunity to experience the excitement of an archaeological dig with the discovery of structures, tombe e reperti.

Arouse emotions is the mission of the Caves of Silenus, in this case, with the charm of the discovery of the ancient, the mystery.

Ancient well

• Now we talk about tourism. I can say I have seen the foundations for a successful host country and not only. I saw started your farm. To what extent are the work of implementation?

Cynthia, We are already operating, in the sense that we practice the principles of hospitality and welcome of Magna Grecia (xenia). L'agriturismo, such as in-room hospitality, will be operational for the opening of the Expo 2015.

Always eats, but especially this summer, We will arrange guided tours on the farm and in the surrounding areas available to take at the guests of the other facilities with paths between nature and history…

Gelso

Flower of Pomegranate

The Caves of Silenus

Raffele Rochira www.legrottedisileno.it

raffaelerochira@alice.it

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Martina Franca in the province of Taranto, an elegant city with a rich history in the heart of Valle d'Itria. I met her walking along its streets and admiring the baroque style of its houses and palaces. A city that I was particularly struck by the care and the order in which it is held. "Qui Mangi Pane e barocco” intitolava nel giugno del ’97 la rivista “Bell’Italia” a proposito del suo centro storico.

Until yesterday I had those parts for a short holiday. Always unite business with pleasure by visiting the realities of agricultural lands that I visit. I was advised that one but unfortunately, because of my departure, I could not see: the historic mill “The Acropolis of Puglia”.

It did for me Vito Piepoli. I share with you his story.

The historic mill "The Acropolis of Puglia"

Vito Piepoli

The month of May is said mass in outer space in front of the entrance of the mill "The Acropolis of Puglia" in Martina Franca (Taranto), in business since 1889, Family Lucarella, where stands a beautiful statue of Our Lady of Odegitria . With this vision of blessing begins a visit to the ancient oil mill in the company of no less than one hundred twenty-two years of Beatrice Lucarella.

"He was my father's grandfather Domenico, Vincent then, the father of my father " Beatrice tells us vaguely of the top photo, placed immediately inside the mill family. Entering the temperature is changed, you're pretty cool. Being a hilly Martina, on the one hand and on the other you climb down ... so how crusher is buried. It is not very big, just as it was, in the center of town. And 'a semi FRANTOIO – ipogeo, like conformation and structure. E '"seeds" precisely because it is not placed in underground cavities but slightly below the road level. The production is cold with millstones and hydraulic presses.

The company is a destination for sightseeing and school groups for the rediscovery of ancient crafts and to learn about the different stages of production which the pressing, the gramolatura, la spremitura, storage and bottling. We continue to look inside the mill and allow ourselves to be attracted by signs and details a latere Principal activity. There are hooks on the ceiling.

Most of these hooks could have more functions or hang caciocavalli and sausages in general by season. The eye bolts were used instead to attack the animals to the chains. Per la staffa di cavallo c’è un duplice significato, the first is to mascot. The second concerns the use of the horse as a beast of 'round', or the quadruped used by the miller to turn the millstones.

Formerly, the place of transformation of olive oil was called “trappeto”, from the Latin trappetum, that is carved into the rock crusher that testify to the flourishing economy of the distant past, or even from the greek trapeo = pigiare o trepo = Twist or even trapetes which means mill by the number of mills that once were three, smaller diameter of the current, positioned at the bottom and a horse-drawn murgesi, Donkeys, typical of the area, or by oxen.

The Acropolis of Puglia

The production is done just as tradition commands, the first pressing of the olives under the grinder and then the dough is placed on fiscoli, shaped donuts, originally stuffed, that go on each other to compose the "tower" , ready for juice under the "press". Four presses in the mill and, to say our guide, durante il periodo di produzione sono necessarie almeno quattro – five people to carry on working.

To make a grinder and make at least a "tower" it takes at least three tons of olives and, secondo Beatrice, this year the year should be good enough for the collection in the family estates that are located in the countryside of Martina Franca and Crispiano. What actually affect much in terms of cost is the maintenance of the countryside. Especially difficult to recover because they try to maintain an average price of sale to the public even if it is essential for the consumer to understand that if you want to eat good and genuine quality product at a cost.

Beatrice reminds us that, switching to another product of the earth, excellent white wines are derived from grapes (Martina white) and red (Primitivo del Salento) typical of the Valle d'Itria. Even the wine market globally has become difficult. I happened to have a meeting with the Russian importers, dice Beatrice, asking to pay the bulk wine to fifty cents per liter (un'assurdità!).

Returning oil, the guide reassures us that the olives harvested and pressed at the mill family do not gather from the ground rather she herself tells us that there must be collected from the ground, because “the oil is a sponge in contact with the ground does nothing but absorb the humus, moisture and mold. I nostri terreni non sono trattati con diserbanti nocivi arando il terreno con l’uso di trattori per eliminare le erbacce e impastare il terreno. Harvesting is done mostly for extraction of the olives from the tree, but if we use the mechanical arm, the olives are immediately collected by networks. It 'a grind. Our main cultivar is characterized by olive "coratina" but also "leccina-Nociara" grafted in the same plant, the fruit of all trees. The harvest takes place during the months of November-December, although much depends on the type of climate that has taken place and the presence of abundant or scarce rainfall; pruning takes place shortly after the collection, with the system of pruning “.

The product is appreciated and exported to the U.S., in Eastern Europe, and in many European countries, especially in England and France. Italy applies the sale through the system of door to door or sent directly to families. Meanwhile, the tour continues and we see some underground tanks full of "yellow gold", where the smell of freshly pressed olive oil is felt even before the view, capturing a pleasant scent that intoxicates the lungs, even before the cup is dropped in the oil we approached the nose.

After one year of storage, we are told, the product remains definitely quality, however, is no longer the intense green, does not have that flavor that tingles, but maturing lose a little 'something, com’è natura. We know Vincent, the second of three sons, he also actively involved in the family business focusing on the sector marketing and sales. The crude oil filtration is carried out with method "in cotton wool", just as it was once, with cotton wool. More than a filtering is a real roughing.

The family Lucarella over to the mill has a farm that also produces other valuable food, for sale in a location situated in Piazza Umberto well as a line of natural cosmetics based on extra virgin olive oil. “We also produce a balsamic dressing, who has fifteen or twenty years of aging” – ha concluso Beatrice – that seems more than a tasting vinegar, a dessert wine and the cooked must of white grapes, the "mulled wine" from the particular consistency, product with the old disciplinary. And we do not just have to say goodbye and wish the mill "The Acropolis" long life, for the sake of our palate and the beauty of our skin.

When I asked Carlo Ravasio his job, without hesitation he answered me: – Cynthia, I'm a bricklayer! – Startled, I looked a bit 'puzzled. La realtà, the real one, is that many people I meet have two lives (I understood).

It grows and changes, the same events that sometimes overwhelm us make us discover hidden potential that awaken our passions and transform our lives. The question is – qual is real life? – Creed, rather they are convinced, that is the one that makes your heart beat us, that keeps us alive, and that makes us wake up in the morning with the desire to do.

Charles Ravasio is an entrepreneur building grew in the lands of an ancient rural village, once used as breeding of goats: Cavril (caprile in bergamasco). Its work has led him to invest in the abandoned village of his childhood in Sotto il Monte Giovanni XXIII, was determined to bring it back to life.

This recovery has given birth to a farmhouse, a house with a terrace from which I have enjoyed, sitting on a bench, the beautiful view of Bergamo. But not only, he also revived the old cellar where lie the bottles of the wines produced on the farm adjoining Sant'Egidio.  Una storia familiare di origine contadina iniziata nel dopoguerra con l’acquisto della prima vigna: ‘Ronco Evening’.

Ronco Evening

Tre ettari di vigneti e uno di oliveto da cui produce olio extra vergine di oliva da cultivarOil mill, Casaliva, Leccino and Pendolino, and the wine that bears on the boards of its biological agriristoro. Ronco Evening, product with a cut of wine Merlot variable between the 60-70% and Cabernet Sauvignon for the remaining part, Tessére obtained from Merlot, Turano da uve Cabernet Sauvignon, and finally Marinele, da uve Yellow Muscat.

During dinner, where I met, Charles I expressed the desire to know how worthy of his land and its production using raw materials of small and medium farms in the area of ​​proven quality.

From an idea often arise projects, that if shared, together and allow you to do well. Questa determinazione ha fatto nascere l’associazione delle ‘Setting Terre’, a group of growers united by a desire to enhance and promote the production of wine from Bergamo, many not yet considered as such.

Commitment, passion, quality, value, growth, and study programs: these seven key points that unite producers who want to associate. Seven, symbol of perfection linked to the fulfillment of the lunar cycle, for the Egyptians a symbol of life.

The night I met him, I had the pleasure of tasting a dish typical of the peasant: the Bread soup with vegetables with poached egg (poached egg). A dish by some considered poor, for me a rich dish, tramandandolo from generation to generation because it allows us to keep alive the historical memory of our bell'Italia.

A tree without roots has not lifeblood, exactly how a country that does not keep her memory alive…

You know what I'm doing tonight? I go in the kitchen! Someone distort the nose… perhaps because who knows me knows that I love eating more than cooking. 😉

In the words of the German philosopher Ludwig Feuerbach – we are what we eat – clearer than that! Personally I love the search history, traditions, but also the therapeutic properties of the food, because eating well is the secret to staying healthy.

The important thing is to choose good raw materials, possibly #madeinitaly saw the great productions that we, but I recommend, optimizing and avoiding waste.

Stem Broccoli

Today I went to the market and I bought two broccoli, dell’salad, a po 'di dried fruit, a piece of Provolone e un good extra virgin 'olive Italian' (check that it is written).

In this respect when you're on vacation take advantage to go visit a farm che lo produce; if you like it buy it, and then home easily send fatevelo. Against the other, consuming the same oil you've tasted on vacation will seem to relive the good times experienced.

But back to the broccoli. Now I use them to prepare a pasta dish and a mixed salad. About, are rich in vitamin C but unfortunately with the cooking in water in part is lost. To overcome this, the ideal is to cook steamed.

That said, once boiled them join anchovy fried with garlic, or in addition to the tuna. I will use this preparation for pasta. I recommend, not spared the 'quality of the pasta', affect much on the outcome of a dish!

Good, remained the stalk of broccoli. I love his taste! Once cleaned should be cut into thin slices and goes together with a nice salad, in chunks of provolone, and a lot of good nuts!

How about ...? Meanwhile, I eat, Bon Appetite! 😉

Recently, with a friend who takes care of catering, I found myself discussing the presentation of the bottle of extra virgin olive oil that I'd like to see on the table in all restaurants.

Comparing them with others in the industry, I realized that in fact there is not much clarity.

For this reason, because I like to talk knowledgeably, I was informed by consulting Maximum Occhinegro, consulente enterprise in the field of taxation and international marketing, particularly with regard to the sector of olive oil in the European and non-European.

We will try to do some 'clarity, quasi (reading you'll understand why), inserting the Law 14 January 2013 n14 and interpretation of Massimo.

• Law 14 January 2013 n14

Art. 7 – Minimum durability and presentation of olive oil in premises.

1. The date of minimum durability within which the virgin olive oils retain their specific properties under suitable treatment can not be more than eighteen months from the date of bottling and should be preceded by the words "Best before" followed by the date.

2. The virgin olive oils offered in packages in the public exercises, without prejudice to the use of cooking and preparing meals, must have suitable closures so that the contents can not be altered without the package is opened or altered, or must be labeled to indicate at least the origin of the product and the production batch to which it belongs.

3. The violation of the prohibition referred to in paragraph 1 entails the application of the holder of the public exercise of an administrative fine of € 1.000 a € 8.000 and confiscation of the product.

4. Article 4 del Decreto-add 10 January 2006, n. 2, convert, with amendments, by law 11 March 2006, n. 81, paragraphs 4-c and 4-d are repealed.

“Interpretative key” the law in question by Massimo Occhinegro

The law 14 January 2013 with Article 14 of 7 second paragraph was intended to repeal the earlier law explicitly prohibiting the use of “famous” oil cruets. However albeit in a confusing, wanted to introduce on the one hand the use of bottles with caps and other anti-topping confirm the obligation of the origin and production batch to which it belongs.

The article, however, is poorly written and subject to different interpretations. The “key” interpretation lies in my opinion in the sense of “or”. In the Italian language “or” can be interpreted as a synonym for “or”, but in that case, the legislature might have thought bottles with locking system anti-topping, unlabeled, which is for logic, meaningless, one side, while the other packs without anti-filler cap but labeled with an indication of origin, date of maturity of less than 18 months from the packaging and production lot, which also in this case such eventuality would make little sense having regard to the desire to prevent the reuse of the packaging.

Therefore, the word “or”, in my opinion should be interpreted to mean “namely”, (as often happens in the formulation of laws) with the intention of offering a specific more compared to what is written in the first part of the same article 7, paragraph 2.

Ultimately this means that the bottles must be labeled as required by law and that more should have anti-filler caps. It is evident, however, that the wording of this item was made in a hasty and confusing as mentioned in the introduction.

What's left to say ... oh, well, I would say that at this point, the only thing that I would say, it is up to us to pay attention to choosing the right catering virtuous quality conscious.

Here I report my interview, or better, my approach with the oil, told by answering the questions of Uploaded Louis, Director of Olioofficina Magazine, to your address book ‘What Oil Do‘.

For the original article please click which.

The farm Cinzia Tosini blogger talks about his experience and his approach with the oil, starting in childhood. For she continues to represent the good thing, what is good, precious and sought that the product should be used with care.

Cynthia Tosini farm is defined blogger. So, in front of the spread of food bloggers, c’è chi, instead, starts from a different view, directly from the earth, by the protagonists of the food before you even arrive in the kitchen and then on the boards.

• What idea of ​​oil did you make during your childhood? The oil of those years was that obtained from olives or a seed oil?

My childhood is linked to the oil much more than an idea. As a child, oil represented the good thing, what was good for, the valuable and sought after product that was used with care. I was a skinny kid with a poor health, one daughter of a father from the tender care. The oil was a natural therapy that he did not fail to add to my every dish. I still remember his words: “Cynthia, Dad now provides you the good oil becomes so strong ..."Growing up my idea has not changed, tutt’altro, strengthened. L’olio, good one, that sought, continues to be a leader in my kitchen. Obviously, the oil of those years and the years to come, per me, is just the oil extracted from olives. Nothing more to my personal taste has never compared well.

• A curiosity: the flavors and aromas of the oil of his childhood coincide with those he perceives and appreciates today?

The aromas and flavors of childhood, being associated with memories and emotions, are inimitable and matchless. In the words of the anthropologist Marino Niola - each of us has his madeleine, the flavor that reminds him of the better age. It's not just regret the flavors of yesteryear, but a state of grace to recreate, a search of lost time. And when we can feel a sense of wonder child, a childlike joy that makes us squint pleasure ... it's Time Regained. However, leaving aside the nostalgia and choosing carefully, Today you can find excellent products with the flavors and scents that are extra virgin olive oil, typicality to promote and enhance the high quality sought by many countries in the world.

• What do you like more of an extra virgin olive oil?

The thing I like most in an extra virgin olive oil, is undoubtedly her perfume. Hearing that I just can not help but squint. If it's good is my expression of pure bliss, mentre name is gold and butter ..., I leave you to imagine.

• How much would you be willing to spend for a bottle of extra virgin?

We say that, of course, do not overdo it, Saturday not to SPEs. If I think that there are people willing to spend crazy amounts to buy a perfume, mean body, I naturally smile. I do not spend crazy amounts, I spend digit reasonable to buy a quality product that I seek, as well as for the good fragrance, also for good taste. What can you do ... I am so done!

• In this regard, for she often buys the bottle of How long? Of 250, 500, 750 ml o da litro?

While it is definitely a good liter, also because the extra virgin olive oil for me is not just a condiment, accompanied by the bread is especially my favorite snack.

• In all honesty, without any sense of guilt or embarrassment, what is your favorite condiment of all dietary fat?

Without a doubt and without uncertainty, and add, with hand on heart, Extra Vergine olive oily!

• Just oil. We come to your work. What are you working?

My real job, as well as my passion and now my life, is to tell what the earth, through the experience of the people who work and who meet the, allows to produce. The result of this expression is represented by many typical features that make Italy a great country known in the world. The mission, my, and that all true Italian, is to promote this.