Bread Bread, wine wine ... just to say that I have no doubt over the bread and wine that I tasted at Tenuta Quvestra. A farm of about twelve hectares located in Santa Maria della Versa, in the province of Pavia. Miriam's hand and Simone – young managers and sommeliers – in the bread preparation, and the wise guidance of the wine dear friend Mario Maffi - historical memory and wine Oltrepò Pavese - led me to think once again how nice to return to this land.

The truth is that far from the vineyards and friends can not stand ...

Yeah ... especially when it comes to re-live the quiet rolling hills covered with vineyards. Get together with friends over a glass of good wine, then, It makes these unique and special moments. È stato così anche questa volta, during a visit to this wine-growing company located in the heart of the Valle Versa, where the vine is cultivated in the surrounding environment. Six varieties: Pinot nero, Croatina, Chardonnay, Riesling Renano, Barbera and Merlot.

And as always, after walking in the vineyard, It goes to the cellar.

Yes ... because the grape is born in the vineyard and wine in the cellar. It's here, in this place rich in history and life, that is completed serious about wine knowledge. The vine, climate and land, are elements that the grower with wisdom and skill allows you to better express, especially in these years of apparent climate change. A path that once again I have lived by those who accompanied the wine produces and personalizes.

As the great Mario Soldati…

“Why, get serious knowledge of a wine does not mean, as perhaps you believe, to taste two or three sips, or even a bicchierotto. It means first of all, the precise location and delimitation where you tap the wine we want to know, get some basic geological information, geographical, historical, socio-economic. It means, then, go there, and be able to be led exactly in between those vineyards from which we get that wine. take walks, then, far and wide. And studying, in the meantime, the appearance of the landscape around, and the direction and the quality of the wind; spying on the hill time and the progress of the shadow; understand the shape of the clouds and the architecture of the farmhouses; even more, It means conversing with the person who presides over the vinification, owner, oenologist, factor… It means walking a long time even in the cellars, underground, or in sheds, between the cement tanks: scrutinize the connessure barrels, sniff the smell of wine that still ferments, detect the presence, sometimes disguised, of refrigerators or, worse, pastorizzanti. Finally tasting, in patient, Alternatively slow, or frequent intervals, compare one to the other flavors on the year.” From 'to wine Wine’

And so it taste, with poetry and respect, as usually I live wine.

After some tastings – but not too many – I stopped to argue with Mario on my misgivings concerning the evaluation of wines made by the tasters of wine guides. Let me explain ... I've always wondered how it is possible that the technical committees can enjoy tasting, and consequently evaluate, hundreds of wines – and sometimes over – without risking a sensory fatigue and a consequent addiction. Well, Mario thanks to its long experience, he could only confirm that my doubt, granting me that after tasting by about a dozen wines, It can 'only' exclude the presence of defects.

Be’, what to say ... maybe just personally I do not like to go more than a dozen tastings. For some, During this discussion, I pay special attention to a good Merlot intense bouquet and a ruby ​​red color.

Because wine (per me) it's red, and red is done right health!

By the way ... back to bread, in addition to wine, there I said that during the various tastings Simone made me taste the 'his bread’ made from Parmesan crusts. One, you got it! Crusts softened in a soaking liquid which is used for bread dough. The idea came to retrieve the large amount of residual forms of cheese which regularly, at the events, avanzavano. Really good!

Quvestra Tenuta
Wine & Hospitality – www.quvestra.it
Location New Homes, 9 – Santa Maria della Versa (Pavia)

I am fond of history, lo so, I have said before ... Well, are also fond of historic homes, here and say,: "You've already said that too!"And I told you that I love swords? Rise, now I'm just looking, as I have said many times that too! Good, found that are repetitive when I like something (is the truth!), I only say that, knowing that in the farm Vercesi Castellazzo I found "story, an aristocratic residence 800, and even ancient swords ", chi mi fermava dall’andarci!

L 'Farm Vercesi Castellazzo is conducted by his friend Gian Maria Vercesi with his brother Mark in Montù Beccaria (PV). About 20 acres planted to Croatina, Barbera, Pinot Nero, Ughetta e Cabernet Sauvignon. Their history dates back to ancient. Gian Maria told me that his family has owned this land since 1600. However, it was the father in 1961 to give impetus to the company making wine grapes grown until then only.

Gian Maria met at a wine tasting evening I organized about a year ago in Oltrepò bunting, beautiful land, I was beginning to discover. Why ask me to organize an evening in an area I did not know? Friends, during my "tour vinous", as I call them, I often mistreat, or better, I often heard some people critical of the sector towards their wines, and especially to the lack of cohesion of the producers in the promotion. In a way we can not say that things are not exactly, but maybe something is changing. As I often say, go it alone leads nowhere. Fare “system”, this is the right key to open the door leading to the actual promotion of a territory.

Organize that evening cost me no little energy, especially the mistrust that I found myself face… For weeks I went up and down from Milan to Pavia to talk with producers, to make them understand that my intent was sincere. Led by dear Mario Maffi and supported by the farm Doria Montalto who welcomed us, the evening finally took place. But we think, "Canteen dell'Oltrepò, i Doria Montalto, that promoted other local wineries ". When I told this to my project gave me many dell'illusa dreamer! They told me: "Imagine if a producer welcomes to his house the other producers in such a difficult time!" Good, I we are successful, maybe because I have a hard head of Mantua, or perhaps simply because he who takes the win! I just know that in the Land of OltrepÃ, this thing happened…

And now I can just, I go back to these hills to chat with them, with friends winemakers known as ...

• Gian Maria, tell me what the transmitter “I think your”, in your wine ?

I try to convey the strength of the terroir while avoiding heavy-handed intervention in the cellar, sull’uva, on musts, and on the wines that derive. I try to touch them as little as possible just to keep all their assets arising from the land they live on.

• It is not an easy time for any Italian manufacturing sector. As an expert of the area which you, can you tell me how you're living in viticulture Oltrepà Pavese? But above all, what are the major current difficulties of you growers?

The difficulties are always those of, unfortunately. Poor relationship between colleagues, but, above all, the amount of quality wine that disappears in relation to the other wine, what fake, mystified, raped to make money from a product that fills the shelves of supermarkets and talking to the market that kind of quality. From here originates the saying that the wine is mediocre dell'Oltrepò Pavese. Another problem is that "there is never time" and very, touches delegate it to others ...

• As a producer you have tips or suggestions to give reporters and bloggers on the world of wine communication?

Just a tip: not stop at appearances (dell'Oltrepò), deepen without being influenced by fashion. Search, discover ...

• To make it clear to anyone who reads as I have known, I telling the tasting evening I organized a year ago now. I mentioned some words such as "distrust"Or as"a system”. The desire for change is strong in many. Proof of this is the free association of producers "inotre" of which you are a member and promoter. I want to talk?

Also was born in 2002, starting with the idea of ​​participating at Vinitaly with a large group that is resting not on the usual collective institutional.

We are about ten manufacturers with a dual purpose: "First, participate in trade shows and events to raise awareness of a large number of quality labels, and economies of scale. Second, to degustarci, taste and other.

We've had ups and downs often related to the time available. Now, however, we're sharing with events and tastings. We have one in the works of a great past year interpreted by us ten, and another a bit 'more complicated, which is still in embryo.

In Pavia our wines are sold exclusively in the Village, in a wine bar called also, and in the bar area VEGA Stradella. We also provide wine dell'Oltrepò, Also a gourmet shop showcase of small productions of the territory, il GOODURIA, in the central Piazza Duomo di Voghera. To be clear, Also 80%, rest d'Italia 20%.

We believe in spreading our brand within the province, and this is something much more feasible when working as a team ...

Daniele Manini, agronomist of the historic Winery Doria the Montalto Pavese. She loves to be described as one who follows to quote his own words,  "The branch cattle-uva-come",  Master of Wine Cellar. Passionate promoter of the recovery of the historical grape varieties and winemaking techniques to search in the history and traditions of the land.

An honor and a pleasure to know ...

•  Chi è Daniele Manini?

A man who lives life in the pursuit of serenity and balance with nature, which finds in the manipulation of matter grapes, energy and fulfillment, with the hope of those who tasted the thrill 'arte effimera to produce wine.

• Daniele, What prompted you to choose the right land?

The case ... After a sensational season in the regular courses of the Air Force of Pozzuoli and particularly in the magnificent "Corso Hawk IV", I found myself re-program my life. He chose my instincts supported previous experience, and unconditional love for all of nature ... In the end a different way to put at the service of one's own existence.

• You call yourself Cellar Master. Can you explain better the differences in this role than traditional figures?

The completeness of the role. The winemaker is understood in the traditional way knows the wine but not deep into the cellar and the vineyard, not interested in reception, marketing and business management.

There is adequate for a professional winemaker who although often experienced manipulator of food,  does not find suitable placement in the professional world except as a farm worker.

By law, so anyone can do the cellar although virtually no one can afford to be in the basement unqualified personnel. The agronomist proper, see the terroir and vineyard but in essence no experience in the valley, often starting from the meaning of wine grapes.

There is no other figure except the "Cellar Master"Together with the property, assuming the role of "facilitator and communicator." He welcomes wine tourists as if it were the one stop shop in places where the departments of tourism and the environment do not have principals.

For the economic-management is the key figure for workplace safety, l’Haccp, la Iso 9000, process control and analytical control. It analyzes and manages the flow of incoming costs and product management in output, almost as guarantor of the company's quality is head to the product management. This applies to small and medium-sized. It is no coincidence that often are the owners conductors to perform multiple roles at the same time,  due to the fact that there is such a professional in Italy.

• Your homeland is Viterbo. How did you get in Oltrepà Pavese?  Can you describe your experience in this area over the years lived here?

I arrived in 1998 precisely to calibrate the ISO 9000.  Through the instrument Iso appropriate I reprogrammed the company for the times to come and for the long run. I was then to take responsibility for the direction of the cellar, and to build me, almost as prototype, the complex function and satisfying the "Master of the cellar".

This territory for many years was an unknown entity because all my energy was lowered to support its business and the acquisition of professional. Closed in my world, looking for the best way for the company and for me Doria, almost a long pregnancy wine.

• Are you a proponent of recovery, where possible, the historical tradition of viticulture. One example is the use of chestnut barrels Italian. How do you rate your experience the results of this?

Interesting and necessary ... I consider archeoenologia or better enoarcheologia. I firmly believe that if you do not bring out the past and it makes it clear (wine school has no specific courses in this regard) you can not talk about Italian wine tradition.

The new recruits how they can get a feel of what the wine, as cultural heritage and essence of Italian food and wine, if they find only techniques and technicalities in oenology courses. And 'as if an artist did not study art history. Wine is art ... I am not able to view it as a technological product or drink.

• I often ask this question and I would also like your opinion. In Italy there are many small producers. I often hear industry experts argue that these small businesses, mostly unable to bear the costs of the technology, can not make quality wines. What do you think?

Michelangelo had only a chisel and a hammer ... Knowledge is synonymous with quality and is always perfectible until life do us part by our passion: wine.

• It 'a difficult time for viticulture. If you were face to face with the Minister of Agriculture, what steps would you ask her to support the immediate?

Respect. I would like to acknowledge the role of guardian of the environment because the system environment is fragile Italian, and always protected by those who make their daily maintenance of the beautiful Italian landscape.

I wish the producer of the wine, the real one that has never hearing in Roman salons, what is everyday in the territory and that alone manages the entire supply chain grape-vine-wine assuming all risks, "Generator" of wealth for the country system, and that because of his magnificent work in management have facilitated quell'IVA that D'Alema has taken away oblivious to the social and environmental role, that the founding fathers of the Italian Republic had attributed to the agricultural classes, often declassified laborer in the classroom often enriched ex-Italian agricultural.

• For a young man who wants to invest their energy and passion in this area, both as a producer and engineer, what would you recommend to start?

Carefully assess personal resources, I mean those energy, and many use them ... Listen harshly critical but always with humility and who has more experience, Always ask yourself "in continuous training" compared to wine and its contours.

Must live with the knowledge that is often misunderstood by a world that revolves around wine and living in a broth made of true and false realities, true experiences and alleged, knowledge and beliefs often, and many lies that create a mix of moods, and then, you would need a super psychopathologist.

In case decides to address them all together, who lives with serene otherness his personal experience wine making ...

“Dear Daniel… I remember one evening when, dinner together at Montalto Pavese, I saw him take his beautiful little girl in her arms. The stood up and said to me,: “View Cynthia, I want her to grow up learning to get excited…”. I am still moved when our thoughts turn to that image…  If my adventure would serve just to know people well, I know for a fact that my way is right, because as I say,  There are many ways to get rich, and this for me, is the best…”

 I Doria di Montalto… non so, ma detto così mi sembra quasi di raccontare la storia di una famiglia medioevale… di castelli, di sfide e di duelli!

E qui scatta la molla… Si, perché dovete sapere che amo molto la storia, and in particular I love everything that has a lived experience to tell. When I see antiques in my wanderings it is as if I were magnetized, and if anyone is with me hear me say: "Wait a minute I have to look ..." Not for nothing at home I surround myself with old books, candelabra, I read, spade, sabers and knives. Then when I enter the historic houses the matter gets really serious. It is as if you were experiencing a dejà vu , as if I were going home ... I only know that one day when you come in, come on Doria Montalto that atmosphere enveloped me ...

You should know that the Doria winery started its business in 1800. Pietro Doria, telegraph operator during the Second World War and survived the extermination of the Acqui Division in Kefalonia, once he returned from captivity he gave new impetus to the business. They followed him until 1996, the sons Bruno and Adriano. After that the reins passed into the hands of Andrew and David,  led by their mother Giuseppina Sassella Doria.

I decided to arrange a meeting for a visit. I was late as usual ... Despite my best efforts I can never be on time! Along the way, the landscapes caught my attention in particular, enough to stop and get out of the car to fully enjoy the beauty.

As Luigi Veronelli said in an article in the Corriere del 2003: “It is a territory which must be discovered slowly, and not only for the wine vocation ... "

At the entrance, dear Daniele Manini met me, agronomist of the company, with whom I spent an entire afternoon talking. The thought still amuses me, because Mario Maffi well known winemaker in Oltrepò Pavese, he had announced that it would be a good fight between the two of us ... Yes, fight who talked the most! Well I called him at the end of the evening, I had won!

You must know that Daniele had started his career as a pilot in aeronautics. It was a vision problem that stopped him, and that forced him to question his life. It was then that he turned to the Faculty of Agriculture of Viterbo, which soon led him to start his happy collaboration with the Doria family. He is a great supporter of the recovery of historical vines and cellar techniques to be sought in the history and traditions of the territory. It is also defined as the following figure, to quote his own words,  "The branch cattle-uva-come",  the Cellar Master. And it is precisely this thought of his that led him to give continuity to the tradition of the Cantina Doria. With him the “historical” Barbera raised in Italian chestnut barrels was made.  And this experimentation of his has led a famous “French tonnellerie” to take an interest, enough to entrust to some teachers the evaluation of the results that will obtain.

I look at my hills and often sip their wine so as not to doubt my teachers ... I look at the Pavia hills each time, moved, that are my sweet horizon of vine leaves. The Po land undulates like an immense sea fringed in profiles familiar to me from childhood. The waves are intense green, and gradually they become light blue violets until they become confused, with the sky ...

Giovanni Luigi Brera, the Gioânn, born on 8 September 1919 and San Zenone Po (Pv)

Recently I was asked which character I'd like to meet. There are so many, but in particular I would like to know a winemaker, Linen Maga, the father of Barbacarlo, red wine produced in the hills near Broni, Oltrepò Pavese.

A man who lives in the peace, in the silences, e nei ricordi degli amici che non ci sono più, un uomo che potrei ascoltare per ore. Ebbene l’ho incontrato, l’ho ascoltato, e mi ha ascoltata…

Lo chiamai un giorno in cui ero quasi bisognosa di un conforto, si era frantumato un sogno. Al telefono lui capì subito, ascoltò brevemente il mio sfogo e mi disse: “Cynthia, è una battaglia dura, mai fermarsi… le cose vanno dette”. E così feci, e così farò…

Prendemmo accordi per incontrarci una domenica pomeriggio da li a breve. Ho vissuto l’attesa dei giorni che mi separavano dalla sua conoscenza con trepidante emozione… avrei incontrato una leggenda, una memoria storica.

Al mio arrivo vidi una semplice insegna che mi ricordava le botteghe dei tempi passati. A fianco un portone aperto mi spinse timidamente ad entrare in un cortile. I miei occhi si spalancarono, lo scenario sembrava quasi la rappresentazione di una fotografia degli anni ’50. Vecchi attrezzi, anticaglie, tralci secolari di vite appesi, e ad un tratto lui. Mi venne incontro quasi conoscendomi.

E’ ormai risaputo che adoro tutto ciò che ha una storia, e forse per quello, nonostante Lino mi invitasse ad entrare, ero trattenuta da quell’atmosfera. Cercavo di capire ciò che vedevo, come quell’insegna che riportava la scritta “Cameliomagus”. Lino mi spiegò che era l’antico nome di Broni, località dell’Oltrepò Pavese. Ci perdemmo in chiacchiere per una mezz’oretta, then, soddisfatta dalle risposte che avevo ricevuto, accettai di entrare.

Ero praticamente circondata dalla storia. Dovunque c’erano i suoi scritti, ma non su tele o pergamene, semplicemente su fogli che appoggiava qua e la, tra libri e bottiglie, come pensieri sparsi.

Incominciai a leggerli… amo la poesia degli uomini semplici. Vedendomi così attratta mi disse: “Cynthia, io non sono un poeta”. Io dico di si, lui lo è!

Ne ebbi la conferma quando, visto il mio interesse, aprì un vecchio mobile e prese un suo scritto del 2011, “Il Vignaiolo”. Vicini in quell’atmosfera sognante me lo lesse. Sfacciatamente gliene chiesi una copia. Mi guardò perplesso, io sorrisi, e dovette arrendersi. L’ho in mano ora mentre scrivo…

Passammo poi nel salone della rivendita. Un grande tavolo di legno, un lampadario antico in ferro battuto, vecchie foto, e dovunque scritti di poesie… io guardavo, leggevo e chiedevo. Faticò molto a farmi sedere. Prese una bottiglia, del pane, due fette di salame, e incominciammo a raccontarci. Ero così felice ed emozionata che ad un tratto mi commossi.

Mi raccontò delle sue battaglie, delle sue sconfitte, e delle sue rivalse. Mi riconosco molto in lui, battagliera sempre, a volte ferita, ma orgogliosamente decisa ad andare avanti per la mia strada… Mi these: “Cynthia, mai fermarsi, mai arrendersi !”

Mi descrisse le lotte nei lunghi anni in tribunale, ben ventidue, tra carte bollate e avvocati per garantirsi il diritto dell’esclusività del nome del suo vino.

From 1983 in fact, il vino prodotto sulla Val Porrei, la collina del Barbacarlo il cui nome è depositato nella mappa catastale del comune di Broni, è ad uso esclusivo di Lino Maga. Su questa collina dal terreno tufoso ed impervio, crescono i vitigni di Croatina, Uva Rara e Vespolina (chiamata anche Ughetta). Le lavorazioni manuali e l’assenza di diserbanti e prodotti chimici, garantiscono la naturalità del prodotto.

La mia visita continuò nelle cantine poco distanti. Fui piacevolmente accolta dal figlio Giuseppe, schietto e simpatico come Lino. Ma la vera sorpresa fu, che non solo lui mi accolse! Ero circondata da mucche, cavalli, un asino, oche del Campidoglio, cani da caccia, galline… insomma, una vera fattoria! Mi misi a fotografare qui e la tentando di correre dietro a un coniglio, visto che per una volta ero senza tacchi! Dovetti arrendermi… la corsa la vinse lui!

Passammo insieme un intero pomeriggio di emozioni, di ricordi, Poetry, nature… un pomeriggio diVino!

My wine does not follow the rules of the market but those of time and experience, is grape juice of the earth, the place that gave birth to, per la gente che ama ancora il sapore della terra…

Linen Maga