Edoardo Ferrera, an aspiring chef landlord I met in Imperia, on a day in early summer when the sun was shining. After days spent in the quiet of Apricale – medieval village among the most beautiful in Italy located in the hinterland of Bordighera – I needed the sea, its colors and its people.

An encounter with a traveler cook who has learned the art of cooking from her grandmother Tecla, in the old family inn located in a blind alley, one of the many narrow streets in the historic center of Genoa. In time, The frequent visits of the port people, They led him to embark as a sailor on the Italian Navy training ship Amerigo Vespucci.

It was the 1984. The passion for cooking was not slow to be felt.

After many experiences– not only culinary – He made around the world (Edward is also a blues rock drummer), He is back in his Liguria, where it runs the restaurant 'The Last Supper refectory of suspended time ". A place to celebrate the taste of the time forgetting.

Edoardo, a kind and hospitable man, but blunt and character. A rent the oral.

• Cook and aspiring innkeeper, start from here. Tell me that your path. At what point did you arrive?

Arrived? Dear Cinzia, if ever party! It is a metamorphic natural path I, for people like me to live Bottega Craft. A cook has a perimeter vision to fire the government and the space where it puts its done, the landlord instead must have a peripheral vision and most comprehensive. This fascinates me and makes me live my space with vision and a different modus operandi. It gives me an obligation that imposes Bottega… Presence, costanza, gestionalità integrated domestic economy, up to administer welcome and global promotion of their own making.

• often I insist that the story of the dish is done properly. A presentation that goes beyond the simple name. Knowing the source of raw materials, the link with the territories and alliances that are created with manufacturers, It makes the real difference. One way to make food culture. It is for this reason that now I will ask you to tell me a dish I particularly loved: the Trenette Pesto Green Beans and Potatoes. A preparation known by most, which requires research and quality ingredients.

The Trenette Pesto Green Beans and Potatoes for us Genoese is a chromosomal factor, a strict ritual to be observed at least once a week. Pesto is in some way GENOA, by representing in a simple manner iconographic its Superba magnificence. Genoa, “superb for men and walls”, as he described by Petrarch, It is the beautiful capital of the sunny Liguria. You know Cynthia, you could walk endlessly in the old town between the charming "alleyways", the narrow streets lined with tall houses, tirelessly. Each wall, every home, alley and building, each villa, park and fort, It maintains the charm of the ancient Maritime Republic of Genoa. “Town of arms and trade”, its arts are kept inside the palaces said rolls, and many museums. Genoa precisely, capital of "pesto" and good food, I am leaving out how I could trace in my menu? Since there will always and forever!

Edoardo Ferrera: “Trenetta, pesto, beans and potatoes. Conceived in Lucera to be accompanied with the real Pesto Genovese. Produced by two wheat varieties with different characteristics and complementary, the Saragolla and Hathor, experienced long in the company and grown in organic farming. The Saragolla has protein and gluten and gives the dough body and flavor; Hathor is a cross between the Korasan and Senatore Cappelli and has a very intense aroma.”

• food and wine Journalism. Sometimes gentle and sometimes sassy. Sometimes even pedantic. What is your experience about?

There are "rules of the game", the need to know, that's all. Sometimes he pens meetings polite gentle soul, sometimes pens that are running out of ink, and therefore they try in some way to leave their mark… But that's part of the game of the parties, nobody forces you to be part of it.

• Filippo, your son, and his passion for oysters. A young actively involved in the kitchen brigade of your local. Explain to me how did his interest for this mollusk? It, given its knowledge, such as advice on safe taste?

It stems from innate gift that Philip has ... being curious. Dowry for another fundamental of our profession, that allows you to go always in search of even the obvious. Thanks to my friend Roman Corrado Tenacious – which besides being a great selector it is a connoisseur ostreiculture – Filippo, literally taken by the hand, He was able to learn first hand about this practice. A world of people of Earth, Mare, Rivers and Lagoons. Today it is he himself who signed our paper oysters researching cognitive with great sensitivity all our proposals, creating a very intense and valuable path.

The safe taste ...?! I think we should always know how to evaluate the professional who is in front. The oyster, as a whole raw fish, to food security is delicate thing, therefore, already the room itself (cleanliness and order) They give important signals on how they can be maintained.

Edoardo Ferrera: “A personal interpretation of one of the first courses of the Italian True that I love: alla Puttanesca in Romanian. Wanting to play with the raw materials we put before the eggs and flour, a true sepia processed and drawn like a noodle. The reference organoleptic is then given by an infusion of vacuum cooked tomato with anchovies and capers for thirty-six hours, It served the pitcher at diner. The effect in my opinion is addictive and sensual at the same time.”

• Over the years I got to know Wainer Molteni, to write about his book: "I am nobody - a homeless history at rescue. " A story that inspired you and allowed you to create a menu: "A Bread and Water". An idea born with the aim to help theListening Center Caritas Imperia, and supporting the homeless. I want to talk?

Wainer is a special person, his story has affected me a lot. His book – "I am noone" – I reiterated its being real person, genuine and deep.

Thus was born the project "A bread and water", a written tasting what I just saw on the street; what invisible collect and fishing from our waste. As you well know, however, These operations chiarity traveling on the fine line between philanthropy and becoming healthy carriers of italics Paraculo.  It is for this reason that we propose the menu only at those tables that somehow they also are "invisible". Those at the table with which a contact is born, a polite and temporal confidence. Tables I choose just me. Do you think maybe it's a climb too arrogant chair? Could be, but they are or are not the Chef!

• After reading your pilgrimage for the world (to tell the truth a bit 'envy), I wonder if your landing in Imperia will be lasting…

I am a sailor in the soul, it is true. By nature my bow never asks stop at the dock watching the ground, but only ever offshore. Just to say that my motto is: "The goal is the Departure". In this case, however, it is different. There is a project called Philip Ferrera, There is a new route to be traced. Do not ask me, however, to give you time. Right now here in the Upper Room in Oneglia the time I Suspended! In the future who knows ... as long as there is to do I'm never bored.

Cynthia, I want to say hello to an old Milanese saying that the good Gualtiero often quoted: “Quand l'ost is on the door, nient for the gh'ha in Ca.”

Edoardo Ferrera: "A dish that was thought for Montale and his collection Ossi di Seppia. Slate, Sassi are the Shoreline Amphitheater and container for our Octopus, which they are extracted natural juices, and then confined in natural gelatin albumin derived from bones Hake. The dish is very simple, because accompanied with potatoes and green beans with extra virgin olive Taggiasca 190 Frantoio Sant'Agata and smoked salt flakes. "

“The Refectory of the Last Supper Time Suspended”  Via Des Geneys, 34 – Imperia www.ilrefettorio.it

Mom and dad Vittorio Silvana, with Alex, Valentino and Ilaria: Taste Round

As I often say, il passaparola delle persone di fiducia nella scelta della ristorazione e delle produzioni, It is my most important guiding. Consigli utili che mi guidano, e che mi portano a visitare belle realtà artigianali. And 'This is real Italy, the artisan, the heart of our country. Italy's food and wine, made of families, of men and women, territories and the art of making and communicating.

It is with these thoughts that, seguendo il consiglio di un amico, They arrived at "Taste Round”, una stuzzicheria italiana situata a Cermenate, in provincia di Como. Un’intera famiglia impegnata nelthea gestione di un luogo di ristoro, che mi ha permesso di prendere la palla al balzo, or better a pizza, to write Restaurants and familiare. There are so many good stories of families related to taste. Energies and passions that eachndo forces are square. Fare ristorazione richiede impegno ed orari che spesso non favoriscono l’armonia familiare. It knowsggia, where possible, It is to work together, unendo la passione per la cucina al calore del focolare domestico.

Taste one of Tondo a story that was born in Calabria con papà Vittorio occupato per ben quarantanove anni nel suo bar a Sant’Agata di Esaro, in the province of Cosenza, and mamma Silvana in un ritrovo per i giovani del luogo. Dopo gli studi dei figli nel settore linguistico-alberghiero, the decision to move to Lombardy was a device of choice. Lavorare per lo più nella stagione estiva non era sufficiente.

And 'so that they arrived in Cermenate, and, dopo alcune esperienze lavorative, They have joined together in a project catering to everyone, but quality. Pizzas, cutting boards, snacks and sandwiches made from them, in un ambiente giovane e accogliente in cui le tracce della storia dei protagonisti è ben visibile. Entrando nel locale mi hanno colpito alcune coperture fatte con piccole sezioni di tronchi di faggio e ontano, incollate ad una ad una da papà Vittorio. An old radio and a few items here and, they gave me the feeling of their desire to start, senza perdere però, le tracce della loro storia.

One Friday evening spent chatting at the table on the choices about the products they intend to use in the kitchen. A restaurant conceived as a link between consumers and farmers, previously visited and verified by them. Provide raw materials Italian quality, while giving customers the option to buy them. Different generations that combine tradition and craftsmanship in the world of taste who wants to return to simplicity and tradition.

A proposito… mentre parlavamo, mi hanno preparato una pizza fatta con una buona farina e ottimi ingredienti. “Bella di mamma”, brainchild of mother Silvana: San Marzano tomatoes, stewed onion, sausage with wild fennel, and, after cooking, shaved Pecorino di Pienza (Siena). In abbinamento ho scelto un Licurgo Sangiovese DOC Riserva Montecucco dell’Azienda Agricola Perazzeta di Montenero d’Orcia (Grosseto).

Una bella serata di gusto passata in famiglia…

Gusto Tondo Famiglia Ranuio – Info 328 7882554
Twittergusto_tondo – InstagramGUSTO_TONDO

Via Alcide De Gasperi, 29
Cermenate (CO)

Oggi voglio parlare di camerieri di sala, one, di quelle persone che al ristorante fanno la differenza. Ci accolgono, spesso ci intrattengono, e ci servono raccontandoci piatti, cibi e bevande. Sono pronti alle nostre richieste, e per lo più preparati alle nostre domande. Figure professionali di cui ritengo si parli troppo poco.

Qualche giorno fa mi sono sentita dire: "Cynthia, il cameriere di una volta non c’è più.” Secondo me è vero in parte; ci sono camerieri preparati e a volte improvvisati. Saper servire un piatto o una bevanda, con garbo e con la giusta presentazione, aggiunge qualità al locale e piacere all’ospite. Anyway, oggi inizierò a parlarvi di questo professionista iniziando da lui, one, da Lukasz Komperda, un cameriere di sala che ho avuto modo di conoscere durante una cena all’Osteria del Pomiroeu di Seregno, in the province of Monza and Brianza.

Sono certa che alcuni di voi penseranno ad una scelta più che scontata: parlare di un cameriere di un locale stellato da la certezza di non sbagliare. Non è proprio così. Io scrivo di gente impegnata, that, through knowledge, mi permette di imparare e di approfondire tematiche che ritengo utile condividere.

Per certo vi racconterò di un giovane uomo che ha catturato la mia attenzione per la cortesia, per i modi, e per la preparazione. Un giovane come tanti che a sedici anni, during the summer holidays, ha iniziato a lavorare in una pizzeria sul Lago di Viverone, in Piemonte. Un autodidatta che conclusi gli studi scientifici, per anni ha svolto la sua attività nell’ambito dei catering formandosi grazie all’impegno e al tanto lavoro. Questa è la prova e la dimostrazione che la voglia di imparare parte soprattutto da noi.

Ho incontrato Lukasz qualche giorno fa, per conoscerlo meglio e per capire le difficoltà della sua professione.

Lukasz, sei nato in Polonia nel 1986 ma in giovane età ti sei trasferito con la tua famiglia a Ivrea, in Piemonte. Dopo aver concluso il liceo scientifico e aver fatto le prime esperienze nella pizzeria di cui mi parlavi, un incontro fortuito con un ospite durante una cena, ti ha fatto approdare al catering iniziando così la tua avventura nella ristorazione. Continua tu…

Cynthia, come già ti ho raccontato, ho visto l’incontro con questa persona quasi come un segno del destino. Nella vita difficilmente si trova subito il percorso professionale che realmente si vuole intraprendere, or better, quel desiderio di trovare gli spazi, le situazioni, le emozioni che fanno sì che la giornata sia soddisfacente. Vivere la ristorazione significa essere immerso a 360 gradi nel lavoro. Per questo motivo quello che si fa deve essere appagante per l’animo. In caso contrario diventerà controproducente per se stessi e per le persone che ci circondano.

In 2010, dopo varie esperienze nei catering e nei ristoranti di Torino e dintorni, sono approdato a Seregno, dallo chef Giancarlo Morelli. Una vera svolta per la mia vita, perché da quel momento mi si è aperta una finestra su ciò che vuol dire sul serio la conoscenza enogastronomica, and not only. Sono partito dall’acquisizione di nozioni sulla materia prima, per poi passare alle tecniche di cucina, alle modalità di servizio, e all’abbinamento dei sapori di un piatto.

In short, sono passato dall’essere un semplice portapiatti ad un vero cameriere. Già, cameriere… quella figura che da anni vive nell’ombra. Sono tempi in cui l’attenzione è concentrata sullo chef e sulla cucina. Purtroppo ci si dimentica che ogni ristorante è quello che è grazie ad una squadra. Servono gli attaccanti… ma si deve avere anche un buon portiere per vincere le partite.

Ti scrivo alcune affermazioni che hai fatto durante la nostra chiacchierata. Me le approfondisci?

• “Il cameriere di una volta non c’è più.”

Il cameriere di oggi che lavora nei ristoranti stellati o meno, deve sapersi reinventare. Deve ampliare a tutto tondo le sue conoscenze se vuole fare strada. È un mestiere dove non ci si può improvvisare…

• “Un mestiere in cui devi prima raschiare il fondo.”

Bisogna partire dal fondo per apprendere le basi, imparando da chi da anni fa questo lavoro. In short, per spiegarlo con una metafora: le case si costruiscono dalle fondamenta e non dal tetto. Ogni esperienza, anche se negativa, aiuta a formare le persone, se queste ultime sanno mettere nel proprio bagaglio la luce anche dove c’è ombra.

• “L’Alma, la scuola internazionale di cucina italiana, prepara alla professione ma non forma realmente gli studenti alla vera vita professionale.”

Ritengo che intraprendere la carriera partendo dal frequentare luoghi come l’ALMA, la scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana di Colorno, sia sbagliato, in quanto è una teoria che si allontana troppo dalla pratica.

• “Nel Canavese la ristorazione è morta.”

Io provengo da una zona del Piemonte, il Canavese, dove non ci sono segnali di crescita, una linea piatta che si ripercuote anche sulla ristorazione.

Concludo con una domanda. Col senno di poi rifaresti il percorso che hai fatto per diventare cameriere di sala?

Dopo questo breve approfondimento posso dirti con assoluta certezza che rifarei tutto il percorso svolto fino ad ora. Oltre a formarti nel lavoro, Figure waiter in my opinion helps you do it outside. This being so closely with people from all walks of life, ti aiuta a comprendere meglio la realtà che ti circonda, perché con questo lavoro si conosce l’arcobaleno della società.

Foto in testata presa dal web

In tested legumes laid on cream peel potatoes with crispy vegetables, beetroot, purple cabbage, Verza, spinach and truffle shavings.

Learn to overcome the difficulties tempering the character and allows to separate the superfluous from the essential. An earthquake like that of L'Aquila, which to many has razed all certainty built in, changes the perspective of things. So it was for Nadia Moscardi, cook 'Elodia’, the family restaurant in Camardia fraction of L'Aquila, razed shocks and then rebuilt. “Cynthia, we are a united family, This is the force that has allowed us to move forward."I fully her his thought. The family is the true cornerstone from which to draw energy. It is not necessarily a question parental, for me it is mostly a matter of truth and genuine affection, you can rely on in difficult times.

Elodia, the name of his mother. Forty years of activity that continues today with a path related to a family tradition gastronomic, carried out in the name of Nature. I met Nadia and her cooking, made of roots and herbs, eleventh edition of Delight the Palate 2015. Ended his presentation, I got to know her through the exchange of life and experience, as is my habit to do, to better understand the people and consequently their work.

You have the floor ...

• Nadia, in your speech to Identity Gourmet've mentioned several wild plants that collect personally fields. I refer to the corn poppy, the plantain, celery water, Seed hogweed or even seed lunaria. From passionate about herbs and roots have to admit that some do not know. Why not build on this to know your teaching people to recognize these plants, and especially to use them?

This is a great idea! It would be very nice to organize a day on the Gran Sasso with a nice walk in the woods and fields to gather herbs, roots and flowers, and then return to my restaurant to cook them.

• I am convinced that the secret to staying healthy is by nature. If I tell you that 'you care eating' What answer me?

I strongly believe in this statement of yours. Our health depends a lot on what we eat. We unfortunately taken from a life too hectic to cure the most of our power. The herbs are good for our health, especially eaten raw. These days are drawing in other recipes with these miraculous plant.

• After some research, as I told you in person, I began to appreciate more and more seeds, oils and flours obtained from hemp, a plant that helps to heal the polluted land, the many uses and many therapeutic virtues. I'm sure I've piqued your interest. I prepare a dish with its derivatives when I come to visit you?
  

You definitely piqued my interest, in fact I'm documenting much about hemp and see what happens ...

• Stingray, old white root typical aquilana that grow in your vegetable garden. Give me some advice to cook?

Cynthia, you can create a creamy parsnip making a smoothie of the root and boiled potatoes, seasoned simply with salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. Or you can do the cips parsnip making of thin sheets of root fries.

• About your 'amatriciana white' ... explain to me what it is?
  

The amatriciana white is a traditional dish of Aquila; have spaghetti or macaroni on guitar made with a sauce of bacon and pecorino, with the addition of pepper or chilli. It's a recipe originally from the town of Amatrice that today is in the Lazio, but that up to 1927 was in the province of L'Aquila. A simple preparation in which are essential ingredients of the highest quality: the cheese and the bacon of the mountains of Abruzzo.

Browned in an iron pan the bacon, cut into strips, with a pinch of pepper or chili; you add the pasta and then pecorino cheese Abruzzo. My advice, to have a more creamy, is to combine the cheese and a little cooking water in the pan before adding the pasta.

Amatriciana White Nadia Moscardi

www.elodia.it

Today I want to talk about the mark-ups on wine made by restaurateurs and wine bar. Recharge I would call unruly, as indeed Italians and much of what concerns them. You will say: “Cynthia, but what enters their silk tablecloths?"Got to do and how if markups, apart from those obvious and very legitimate, are made to distribute the costs of the same local. With 'silk tablecloths' I was referring precisely to this.

Let me explain. A few days ago, sitting at the table with friends journalists in the industry long-standing, it is on a discussion that debates and debates ..., you know what I was told when I challenged this state of being? I have that enthusiasm that they have lost the fight what should be corrected, but which has now entered the customary.

Put whatever you want, but I find it absurd that the markups on wine in restaurants are made in an indiscriminate and uncontrolled penalizing wine and limiting consumption. You know what I say to you: "You have to make the revolution, understood as a big change, Also nell'enogastronomia!”

As always speak as a passionate and informed consumer who likes to confront. For this reason I asked some friends who live in this area first, their views on the issue. (An answer key is in alphabetical order).

Mark's Church, wine consultant.

We all expect lower markups on wine, because the wine in Italy remains a product “popular” always on the table and so is unjust, for example, that the wine from 5 EUR shelf, is sold to 15/18 euro and the wine 10 EUR is sold 30. But if we think, each bottle of wine has an operating cost which includes: space cellar, borrowing costs between purchase and collection, time waiter / sommelier for management, service, disposal, glasses and washing, any changes to the customer or if inventory sold in glass. Together with Accor years ago we calculated that the cost of running a bottle in an efficient structure as a hotel 3/4 star international chain costs about 10 euro. The average Italian restaurant is much more inefficient, we do 12. If I buy a wine 5 euro, I have to sell it in order to remain equal to 17, then if I want to earn then at least one 40% margin would be correct. The accounts are made soon and you will understand why many restaurants close: do not know how to do, accounts.

If we think a plate of pasta has a lower manufacturing cost to the euro, but we pay him 8/10 and no one blinks an eye. Why does not happen with wine? Wine is penalized just when it is sold as a service to low price, when to stay in the accounts the manager buys wines to two euro and resells them to 10, getting lost anyway. I believe that in Italian wine prices at the restaurant are very low and almost always miscalculated. Just take a trip abroad to understand. I stop but I could talk a lot about…

Gianni Galantino, restaurateur. Restaurant Da Giulia – Milan

The wine has not only purchase costs but also costs related to the conservation and management of the cellar. I do a few examples. If we buy a bottle of wine at a cost of 6 we have to sell the euro at about 18/20 euro. If we buy in 25 we have to sell the euro at 50 euro. Otherwise we lose. Cynthia, then you have to keep in mind, that there are wines that taste of cork or for air intake or become undrinkable marsalati.

Simone Liloni, sommelier. Trattoria Pegaso – Gavardo (BS)

This burning issue… I must say that I try to be as honest as possible about markups is the glass that the bottle. In many area if they take advantage and not a little. I give you an example. In a good pizzeria near my house damage to glass as a sweet wine liqueur of Zibibbo Florio, ordinary wine, pleasant although too sweet for my taste. Well, wine costs at the supermarket in size from 0,75 4,50 euro. Sell ​​it by the glass 4. Whereas from a bottle derive seven glasses, So twenty-eight euro, earn twenty-three euro clean! This is just one of many examples.

Another problem of the wine by the glass is the repetitiveness of the labels, eventually, Roughly, always turn those three or four by type. I propose a little wine’ countercurrent glasses, perhaps almost unknown but customers require me.

Isabella Monguzzi, holder Enoteca Vincanto - Senago (MI)

Behind some price increases are the glasses, their sanitation and all that entails pouring; then, you can find the locations that they charge the environment and maybe (indeed often) fold up scarce products with price increases from usury. But as they say the eye wants its part and often, when the client is immersed in an original and / or fairytale, he does not care what you drink! This is what I have taught some restaurateurs customers!

Gianluca Morino, producer. Cascina Garitina – Nizza Monferrato (AT)

These price increases are a huge penalty for wine.

Matthew Knowles, restaurateur. Osteria della Buona Condotta – Ornago (MI)

A three star restaurant markups other than those who have none, In fact he even ten times the cost of the bottle, and it is clear why. For example, if you have glasses riedel have cost more, as it is clear that if you have a sommelier will have a higher cost to be spread on the customer's account. In any case, all that is present in a restaurant has a reloading, the food cost is a tax rule. Cinzia this work has become expensive and difficult, we are inundated with costs and taxes. In France, wine markups are high. They are right ...

Tano Simonato, restaurateur. Restaurant Tano pass me the oil – Milan

In normal restaurateurs recharged twice in restaurant, and three times in the restaurant. Some top restaurant four times. The costs are so many… personnel costs, high rents, taxes on taxes, expensive raw materials…

Robert Spinazzè, producer. Terre di Provides – Frattina Pravisdomini (PN)

The markups honest allow a tour of consumption. Unfortunately it is not always so. Mah, there would have to do endless discussions.

Chiara Soldati, manufacturer. The Scolca – Gavi (AL)

The custom of significant markups on wine is now widespread and consolidated. In Italy surely this phenomenon is much more noticeable than the foreign countries. I believe that a balanced reloading is legitimate, but in many cases are priced wines not justified. I think a good price policy would help both the category of restaurateurs that the world of wine. A balanced pricing policy would help the spread of a quality consumer and perhaps not penalize the Italian market already in crisis for several factors.

Helping territoriality, study adequate policies “by glass”, system between various parties agreeing adequately output prices, would be a good rule to streamline the market. Cynthia, have you ever noticed how some wines that are in the paper on top of the prices are sometimes sold below cost in the offers of retail?

Alessandro Vitiello, Restaurateur and sommelier. Restaurant Il Fauno – Cesano Maderno (MB)

Cynthia, I agree with you. Surely every local freedom to decide as it sees fit and depending on what adds 'free' to the glass of wine, But I am convinced that the 'world wine' would have to qualify if they shared the 'guidelines' that allow the customer to drink knowing that the price of a glass or a bottle is properly proportional to the price determined by the manufacturer.

I take the word.

What's left to say? I still think that these mark-ups should be regulated so that the wine is not to pay the excess of the cost of managing the catering. The fact remains that by which they are informed consumer, I would like to understand what is in each case plus its cost.

This awareness would fall into my satisfaction in the evaluation of a restaurant. With so many guidelines that are, I wonder how it is possible that there will be an updated and available online which gives the possibility to make this immediate verification. Who knows ...

In swordfish tested at low temperature, 62 degrees, with caramelized chestnut Gran Marnier, pureed cannellini and zest (peel) orange caramel. Chef William Paolucci.

David Lacey, father del Ristorante The Malmaison di Milano. I met him during a recent demonstration on street food. What struck me about him? The way he told his raw materials, in particular by providing recommendations and insights on crustaceans and molluscs, drawing particular attention to the public, have given rise to one of the most successful interventions of the day.

E 'for this reason that I wanted to know him better by accepting an invitation to dinner at his restaurant. But I did not know everything, one, I did not know earlier related to his private life that alas affect its history of restorative.

Yesterday, People who know me and care about me, knowing how I feel about the protagonists eno, you are worried about writing me in private. I was there just to get to know a person and the dishes of his good young cook, William Paolucci. Point.

Raw fish

A man from Puglia who has lived in Milan a difficult, who left school at fifteen to work in the markets of fruits and vegetables, getting up at three in the morning, in the cold of winter and the sun in the summer. Then, at night, work in a nightclub to cover the costs.

“Cynthia, I will never forget where I came from, memories always give me the joy of smiling. I was born in a historic district on the outskirts of Milan, Giambellino, in 1965. I've lived through the worst years. More than half of my friends and classmates died from drugs, while others ended up in jail. Now that I have something of mine that really gives me satisfaction, I do my work with love and passion, that's it.”

Of course I gave him some advice. There are many changes to be made in its local. As I said to David last night, sometimes change is necessary to give a true turn their lives around, making hard choices and serious about turning the page. Chapter closed.

I will leave you only the images that struck me the day I met him.

–

I have known George Perin during a evening dedicated to Nebbiolo that took place a few days ago at MO.OM Hotel Olgiate Olona, in the province of Varese. And 'now my habit, interesting if I evaluate the arguments of my interlocutor, deepen his knowledge with a chat that allow me to understand and above all continue to learn.

Chef George Perin

The choice of Giorgio to make the cook was almost a must. In those years, the addresses were in fact privileged school aimed at vocational schools that allowed an immediate entry into the labor. Nato and Verbania, opted for the Hotel School of Stresa initially without any ambition career.

Season after season, away from the affections and friendships, the path has begun to inspire enthusiasm. The good fortune to work alongside great chefs of Novarese, allowed him to be formed by learning the fundamentals of classic cuisine which then has maintained over the years as the pillars of his working method. As they say, one thing leads to.

Detto ciò vi presento l’Executive Chef dell’Hotel MO.OM Giorgio Perin. A lui la parola.

• George, Do you think you can eat with good raw materials without spending follies?

Not only can, but it is necessary if you want to produce a good result that satisfied both customers and the home for which you are working. Is it not what you normally do in every family? It tries to contain costs and to meet all the needs. A result that can be achieved through a careful selection of products, proper calibration of goods, and a cooking method that avoids wastage reducing to a minimum or even canceling them.

• The best catering 'yesterday or today that'?

I think that there is the best of one better than the other without the. I spiego. Today we tend to always seek new flavors, new combinations, and new cooking methods to satisfy both palates that need to shrink the waiting time and the consummation of the dishes. But we must not forget that in the kitchen 'yesterday' there are tastes, perfumes and authenticity that no news today could never make us forget. Many recipes of today are reinterpretations of dishes yesterday, the most genuine and natural.

• Would you recommend to your son / daughter to go your own way?
  

Every job, se fatto bene, commitment and passion is hard, as well as every person is the architect of his own destiny. NO, I have not recommended it to my children my work, I have never expressed their willingness to do so. Personally, I am happy that they feel in their choices made.

.

• Why do you think women have a harder time to establish itself in the high food?

In my opinion it is difficult but not impossible. This work when done with passion requires great dedication, sacrifice and time. I would, therefore, not a matter of ability or possibility, but of self-denial. Getting high food may mean giving up the family, for fun and time for themselves. But things are changing in this direction.

• The kitchen is a question of meaning. It is scientifically proven that women have a higher sensitivity. Precisely for this reason, you accept to work alongside a woman?

A few years ago I would have had some serious reservations if I had proposed a collaboration between men and women in the kitchen, maybe for my dominant character, perhaps for bias, or maybe just because I've always seen my work "Man". Today I would be more open to this possibility, but would not do it as a matter of sensitivity, because in order to cook well, to match tastes, to create color effects, this skill is essential regardless of gender.

Cynthia, I conclude these our chat by telling you that I spent almost an entire life being keen for a job that required me great sacrifices but that gave me enormous satisfaction. Thanks to this experience I got to know great minds, other countries and cultures. I'm still happy with my results and operating. I thank my family for the patient, enthusiastic, objective support without which everything would have been much more difficult. In Fede, George Perin.

How not to share the words of George. The family, for those lucky enough to have, is the most important support in life. And 'nest that warms us in the cold moments and sustains us in difficult. Never take it for granted ...

The kitchen of Chef George Perin.

—

A few days ago I did a little survey on what people expect going out to the restaurant. A pleasure to which Italians hardly give up, even in a time of crisis like this. I often hear people say - but how, all are in crisis but the restaurants are full! - Sure, not all, but many.

As for me I love it (are better at eating than cooking). 😉 Assaggiare cibo e vino è una mia grande passione, a moment of true bliss gift that I carefully choosing the place of refreshment. Sometimes I follow the advice of friends and acquaintances, while sometimes, especially when they are traveling, uso il ‘Tosin method’. How it works: with the excuse of a photo 'attack button' with the locals who say so, I washed for, and then, I ask directions on eateries where typical stop eating. The results are often surprising!

But now let's go back to my little survey. I state that I was very surprised that few have made reference to the 'account'. I am convinced that at a critical time like this the right relationship between quality and price is one of the main reasons that determines the choice. Some argue that it is impossible to eat well without spending, alas, molti non si possono più permettere. Io credo che partendo da buone materie prime che l’agricoltura italiana ci mette a disposizione, you can do without spending a quality kitchen madness. For example, a pasta with tomato sauce if done well, is a great dish!

That said, below, here is what has emerged (I also added my thoughts). Some, nothing new, but perhaps it does not hurt to remember.

Italians when they go to the restaurant would…

• Qualità e accuratezza nell’uso di buone materie prime. Italian agriculture provides in abundance there without exorbitant costs. In this regard, I particularly recommend the fruit. A basket at the end of the meal, without having to ask, is more than welcome! I forgot… I would also recommend the salads, there are very few restaurateurs who know them as they go without.

• Friendliness, education and courtesy. A smile is the best host (and costs nothing). Having to deal with the service staff is friendly and a point gained favor.

• Accessibility. An essential feature considering the 80 million people with disabilities in Europe… 650 million worldwide.

• A the wine list well done broken down by region, and not only with the usual well-known names. There are production of small and medium-sized agricultural realities of excellent quality.

• We are a land of great oils, mwe want to put them on the tables so that people can know them! Personally them or put them there or ask! About, also applies to the vinegar (and I'm not referring to some balsamic products that have nothing to do). Among other things, there are many who love wine vinegar, but it's good (I understood). Once it was in every cellar, today is almost a rarity. Let's go do it!

• A relaxing environment. I happened long ago, in a place renowned for its excellent pizza, see running up and down the staff in the dining room. It was filled with some, but be struck by the continuous passage hectic, urtava we. I love the peace ... I is crucial when I go out to lunch or dinner.

• Cleaning and services in order treated the same way as local host us to eat. Unfortunately it happens it happens the other way.

• The possibility of having a space for their pets What is very much appreciated by many.

• The parking that, in cases not provided for in the vicinity, There is facilitated when we book without making us go crazy on arrival at the unexpected difficulty.

• Wifi libero restricting the use of cell phones, which sometimes is abused by disturbing the peace of others. Compared to first of all.

Regarding this last point, Having regard to the use and sometimes misuse of the media, I would like to find 'Face to face Restaurant’, I think the name makes the idea of ​​what I want: #socialization.

Three rules for guests: you must sit at the table with people who strictly do not know, presents itself to us and chat, and… cell phones off. Outcome of the evening: it is easy to hang out with new friends, or ... try again and you'll be luckier! How about… we talk about it? 😉

Here are the answers to my original survey:

The table in the photo was staged by Amelia Face, freelance fashion designer

My first time with a hedgehog has been a few years ago in Milan at the restaurant 'Da Giulia'. But what you got?! The hedgehog in question to which I refer is, indeed it was ... a great sea urchin! 😉

Never having had the opportunity to taste this delicacy, few years ago a dear friend has seen fit to provide for taking me precisely at this restaurant in Milan. A family-run business whose owners, Abbott and Julia both of Bisceglie in the Province of BAT (Barletta-Andria-Trani), are united in life and in work from twenty-five years.

After that there were other, also because they are now friends with whom, sometimes in person and sometimes I interact on social, but mostly I delight the palate.

That being said now take advantage of the occasion to make them some questions, but above all to explore some topics that I care very. When I go to a restaurant, who knows me knows, I go with a critical eye, and not only. The quality catering can be a lot for the promotion of the territory of its productions.

Giulia is too busy in the kitchen, Gianni's up to you to answer me! Are you ready? Today we will talk about the territory, of food culture, of extra virgin olive oil, della doggy bag, of wine, alcohol test… of course the restaurant.

• How much of your land, I mean how traditions and specialties in the kitchen of your restaurant?

I want to test? Cinzia are ready! Therefore, all our cuisine is based on typical dishes of our homeland even though a modern twist. We use raw materials typical of the area such as Senatore Cappelli flour produced in the Murgia, the grits Tumminia Castelvetrano, the burnt wheat Daunia of San Severo, extra virgin olive Bisceglie, le verdure, la frutta, shellfish and seafood from Manfredonia.

• Often insist on the fact that pills with food culture, can also be made by caterers explaining the origin of the raw materials of the dishes that bring to the table. Share?

Absolutely agree with you. And 'our habit to tell the dish that we bring to the table for our guests to make them understand what they eat.

Busiati Trapanesi semolina Tumminia pistachio pesto and tuna bottarga

• Let's talk about extra virgin olive oil. As I often say I would like to see on restaurant tables, as is already the case for wines, of 'cards of olive oil' pills with information that present briefly the characteristics of the cultivar (variety of olives). Then, I wish I was offered a small bottle of olive oil is representative of an area that I would use during the meal, I would pay the bill at a promotional price, and that I would take home. Utopia or hope? 

Speaking of oil can not forget when I was a child I devoted the olive harvest in the countryside. I remember the alarm clock a good time to 4.30 and my father, who lit the fire to warm up while the big predisposing the jute sacking around trees. Tempi duri ma belli.

I wonder if it is possible a list of extra virgin olive oils? Some have it, the important thing for me is to have a certified quality extra virgin olive oil and olives produced in Italy by land. As you know I use extra virgin olive Lamantea, a product of the lands of Apulia. The varieties of olives used are the olive and olive CORATINA OGLIAROLA, typical of our land.

• Now for the doggy bag, or rather the package with which the guest of the restaurant brings home the food that has advanced. A consuetudine all'estero, in Italy a much less practical in use. Are we too 'gentlemen'? I wonder, but how they do it?

Cynthia is we ourselves who want to bring home the leftover food in a container ready to be heated. I first and foremost am opposed to the waste of food, especially in these times of crisis.

• Same thing goes for wine, at least for me. Given the correct restrictions in force, in case we should put the guide is desirable, when you order a bottle and you end up not, that they could take home. Sei in Accord?

Some,  it happens that some take away the bottle. Customers are now aware of how much they can drink. It’ for this reason that I chose a good number of bottles cl 375 while I decided not to serve wine by the glass because, in addition to losing the magic of uncorking,  can be recovered even think about wine.

The Sicilian cassata Giulia

I conclude my talk with Gianni remembering, about the limitations in force concerning the consumption of alcohol, that the regulations require mandatory for all public places open past midnight, possession of a device which allows customers who have to drive to detect your blood alcohol level, the well known limit 0,5 grams (for new drivers is expected to rate 0).

It would be advisable that they had all, even those that close before midnight. However be aware that it is our right to ask to be able to make an 'alcohol test', in case we have doubts about what we drank.

The photographs of the dishes are of 'Da Giulia Restaurant’

Recently, with a friend who takes care of catering, I found myself discussing the presentation of the bottle of extra virgin olive oil that I'd like to see on the table in all restaurants.

Comparing them with others in the industry, I realized that in fact there is not much clarity.

For this reason, because I like to talk knowledgeably, I was informed by consulting Maximum Occhinegro, consulente enterprise in the field of taxation and international marketing, particularly with regard to the sector of olive oil in the European and non-European.

We will try to do some 'clarity, quasi (reading you'll understand why), inserting the Law 14 January 2013 n14 and interpretation of Massimo.

• Law 14 January 2013 n14

Art. 7 – Minimum durability and presentation of olive oil in premises.

1. The date of minimum durability within which the virgin olive oils retain their specific properties under suitable treatment can not be more than eighteen months from the date of bottling and should be preceded by the words "Best before" followed by the date.

2. The virgin olive oils offered in packages in the public exercises, without prejudice to the use of cooking and preparing meals, must have suitable closures so that the contents can not be altered without the package is opened or altered, or must be labeled to indicate at least the origin of the product and the production batch to which it belongs.

3. The violation of the prohibition referred to in paragraph 1 entails the application of the holder of the public exercise of an administrative fine of € 1.000 a € 8.000 and confiscation of the product.

4. Article 4 del Decreto-add 10 January 2006, n. 2, convert, with amendments, by law 11 March 2006, n. 81, paragraphs 4-c and 4-d are repealed.

“Interpretative key” the law in question by Massimo Occhinegro

The law 14 January 2013 with Article 14 of 7 second paragraph was intended to repeal the earlier law explicitly prohibiting the use of “famous” oil cruets. However albeit in a confusing, wanted to introduce on the one hand the use of bottles with caps and other anti-topping confirm the obligation of the origin and production batch to which it belongs.

The article, however, is poorly written and subject to different interpretations. The “key” interpretation lies in my opinion in the sense of “or”. In the Italian language “or” can be interpreted as a synonym for “or”, but in that case, the legislature might have thought bottles with locking system anti-topping, unlabeled, which is for logic, meaningless, one side, while the other packs without anti-filler cap but labeled with an indication of origin, date of maturity of less than 18 months from the packaging and production lot, which also in this case such eventuality would make little sense having regard to the desire to prevent the reuse of the packaging.

Therefore, the word “or”, in my opinion should be interpreted to mean “namely”, (as often happens in the formulation of laws) with the intention of offering a specific more compared to what is written in the first part of the same article 7, paragraph 2.

Ultimately this means that the bottles must be labeled as required by law and that more should have anti-filler caps. It is evident, however, that the wording of this item was made in a hasty and confusing as mentioned in the introduction.

What's left to say ... oh, well, I would say that at this point, the only thing that I would say, it is up to us to pay attention to choosing the right catering virtuous quality conscious.