Alessandro Vitiello, for friends Sandro, a sommelier and restaurateur but above all a friend. 'Only the vin d'art' is an anagram of his name developed by Joseph Maria Grassi, a friend who delights so.
A man who has in his heart a land, his Ponza. I am moved when I see him sharing memories and photographs in black and white of the island who had to leave as many for business reasons. He says in his blog: ‘The home of the Sack of Ponza’.
"When tornavo to Ponza, the next morning, ridiventavo the sailor of my father and his five-meter boat we went fishing together. My father gave up practicing the sea at the end of '92: had more than eighty years ... "
Constantine Sacco, father of Sandro, Santa Teresa in the 60s (left on the bow)
Sandro, thanks to its long experience as a restaurateur before the Osteria of the Seveso bowls and now at Ristorante Il Fauno Cesano Maderno, has many memories spent with the characters of Italian. From time to time when there is an opportunity, I love knowing how to listen, someone agrees with me.
Today I want you to know…
Hello Sandro, I wrote these thoughts one morning at dawn. I did not sleep and my mind ran. Maybe the desire to travel with the words? Who knows… I think we understand each other nostalgic and romantic.
- A few nights ago you were telling me that time… I love it when you tell me stories of the world of food, lo sai. Me citing someone who is stuck in my mind in particular?
There could be many Cinzia, to tell the truth rather than anecdotes remind people that love between Milan and surrounding areas have spread the art of good drinking. I recall, for example, Anthony Trimboli – Apulian origin – that in his youth, in the postwar period, had turned almost the whole of France and Italy had brought an encyclopedic knowledge of French wine in general and in particular the champagne. Talk to him – man bluntly – was a unique pleasure.
As with the rest of the "Jacobin" by Adriano Romano. Masters even before sellers. What about the brothers Brovelli? Men of other times that told the wine with great passion.
Un aneddoto. One evening happen a couple of friends for dinner at the Osteria delle Bocce (our previous restaurant) accompanied by another couple. On display at the entrance was the latest selection of whiskeys Samaroli. Dopo price, a nearly empty restaurant, the friend asks me to bring the whiskey more strange that I, in method anonymous, his guest. This gentleman, after tasting, told me everything you can about this strange distillate that I had pulled out of a piece of furniture that I had in another room. After drinking plenty together told me about his work. He spent his time in Scotland to select whiskey on behalf of a multinational. Some time ago to see the movie "the side of the angels," I remembered him.
- Do you remember when we first met? I almost practically obliged to organize evenings of culture and taste for knowledge of food and wine. You should know that Sandro is a great connoisseur and lover of food and wine, maybe just lazy little enthusiasm from people in learning. But then came a volcano…
It’ Cynthia Tosini is certainly true that a volcano as it is also true that I cultivate "the art of the doubt". I was old enough to be sure of not having to sell certainties and every so often to ask if you need something or someone to tell my world. Then, when you clash with Cynthia Tosini many doubts go to hell and resumes.
You have to know that we started organizing events dedicated to wine and food from the autumn of '84: trent’anni fa. There was no internet and our news traveled by ordinary mail, yet there was so much attention, and often had problems dealing with the many who wanted to attend. I then I had fun to put together so many courses to organizations or institutions in the area. Before I teach you amused. Even now, this rule applies.
Alessandro Vitiello… Sandro
- Step to a question related to your business. How would you describe the average consumer today, in the sense of what to expect and what to look for?
The average consumer today suffers as long as you live. We who have lived through the years of the "Milan to drink" we find it hard sometimes to make sense of what is happening. The consumer remains attentive and curious, ready to consider with respect to the good and new is proposed. He added, however,, or rather considered more important than in the past, judgment on the fair value of things which are served.
You can also pay as much a bottle of wine but it is important to be worth the money spent. It is not enough that anyone who sells it is "a man from the first page". Not hide, however, that are complicated years; know how to do well in the kitchen and know how to find great wines at a fair price has become critical.
- I often say that the role of restaurateur, presenting the dishes and serving wine, can be called a veicolatore pills information critical to convey to the consumer food culture. Esagero? I do not think. I am convinced that, starting from the table, not to bore the guest, you can do much in this direction.
You're absolutely right: the profession of catering can be a great opportunity to spread a lot of good habits, not only food. Not by chance at a restaurant or eating in the company, we often talk about food and conviviality.
It reminds me of Garcia Marquez – The General in His Labyrinth – he does ask a host of Simon Bolivar: “But because the Europeans are at the table when discussing food?”. What answer? At the table while talking about food is talked about throughout the human condition. Besides, even the Christian liturgy think in these terms: the story of Jesus on Earth ends with a last supper.
- Now, at the end of our chat this, one of the many, I'd like you to write me a reminder of your land. Com’è Ponza a primavera?
Ponza is my "place of the soul". I spent most of my time here in Brianza, ma if I definirmi, me say that I am Ponzese. What do you mean? Anything and everything. We ponzesi not we better do it worse than others. We are another thing. It is said that a person's character is formed in the first years of life; I've built my looking at the sea. From my backyard, in the days of storm thinking of my father who was fishing in the waves or in the beautiful spring mornings, when the beauty of the landscapes is the scent of the gorse.
Those things you bring them stuck inside and not lose the most. Ponza in the spring is the most beautiful place in the world. Not only for the beauty of the area, but also and above all for its flavors. Go around the hills to pick wild asparagus, savor the goodness of certain artichokes grown in the volcanic soil that gives it a very strong flavor is unique emotion.
And the sea? In the spring you eat the most delicious crab spider, cuttlefish and squid in quantity and fish soup which at this time has a special flavor. I could go on for hours telling you, but if you have so, give yourself a week to Ponza in the spring, I guarantee you that you will have trouble getting back.
Sandro, I promise you that I will…
Photographs by Alessandro Vitiello
