The last stop on my recent excursion to Cupramontana was at the Ca'Liptra farm. Just thinking about it still makes me shiver! There fraintendetemi, I was referring to the cold gusts of wind that still carried me away a little that day! Jokes aside, returning serious, I reflected on the important influence that this climatic condition has on viticulture.
in fact, this mass of air in motion, acting on the microclimate, it helps to reduce humidity and consequently prevents the formation of fungal diseases. Also, limits the development of phytophagous insects harmful to crops and infectious virus vectors for plants, limiting the use of phytosanitary treatments. I'm talking about the wind, this atmospheric phenomenon allied to the biodiversity of agroecosystems, and in this case, of the vine. One of the essential elements of the climate, that, together with the vine, to the territory and to the skill of those who make the wine, express the typicality of a product.
That day, arrived at its destination, I found myself immersed in a real natural amphitheater. To tell the truth, ascertaining the accuracy of the location was not really easy. in fact, the headquarters of the agricultural society is poorly marked. Anyway, after a few clarifying phone calls, I finally managed to start my visit to Ca'Liptra. The choice of name takes inspiration from the vine flower system, a sort of protective cap of the inflorescence, which comes off once flowering has occurred.
A small organically run agricultural reality born in 2012 from the union of three partners, that, completed my oenology studies, after the internship in Cupramontana – historical capital of Verdicchio – they fell in love with the area so much that they moved their lives here. "Making wine together", this is the project. One of them, Roberto Alfieri – my kind guide – he came here from Monza, his land of origin: “I got to know and appreciate Verdicchio during my internship in Cupramontana. Its evolution is very interesting, especially if aged for at least five years.”
Started with two hectares of vineyards, partially recovered, today they raise nine. Seven in the Contrada of San Michele, historic area facing south – the hottest area of Cupramontana – with very steep terrain and vineyards with an average slope of 40 %, and two in Contrada San Marco. Grassy vineyards treated only with copper and sulphur. In a modest structure, still in the process of being set up, from 2012 they make wine in a small cellar, aging in steel and concrete tanks, for a total of about 20.000 bottles per year.
Flavor, acidity and minerality, the common denominator of their wines:
KYPRA : Pure Verdicchio, indigenous yeasts. Expression of the Cupramontana territory, union of different parcels. It ferments and refines on the fine lees, in concrete tanks, for at least 8 mesi.
S. MICHELE 21 : Pure Verdicchio. Vineyard wine. 0,55 ha, 350 m s.l.m. with rows facing south-east. Spontaneous fermentation without temperature control in multi-passage barriques. Refinement for 12 months on the lees at the end of fermentation e 6 months in the bottle.
THE LUT : Pure Verdicchio, classic method. Grapes harvested from a single plot a 380 m s.l.m. with rows facing south. Produced only in particularly favorable years. Refine in the bottle for longer 36 mesi.
CALIPTRA : Pure Trebbiano, indigenous yeasts. Two different collections are carried out: at first, anticipated, to maintain acidity and the second when ripe, with short maceration on the skins. The due mass, kept separate until the end of fermentation, they are then combined for refinement, which takes place in steel tanks for six months on the fine lees.
ORANGE : Pure Trebbiano, indigenous yeasts. Coming from a single vineyard 220 m s.l.m. esposta a is. A long maceration on the peels shades it orange. Eight months aging in steel on fine lees.
Amister’s friendship’ : Pure Montepulciano. Coming from a small vineyard 0,27 hectares a 200 m s.l.m. exposed to the west. Equipped with freshness and drinkability, since it carries out a short maceration of 2-3 days. The fermentation ends in exhausted barriques and steel tanks, refining on the lees for 9 mesi.
Ca'Liptra Agricultural Company – Via San Michele, 21 Cupramontana (AN) www.caliptra.it
